IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

NebulaNova

•

Another thing to consider - as a remote worker for a California company, make sure you're not having California state tax withheld from your paychecks! California only taxes non-residents on income physically earned while in California. If you haven't physically worked in California, you shouldn't be paying California income tax at all. This is separate from the 529 question, but many remote workers overlook this and end up filing unnecessary non-resident returns.

0 coins

How do you get your employer to stop withholding the wrong state tax though? Mine keeps withholding for their state even though I've never even visited there!

0 coins

Aisha Khan

•

Some companies require you to fill out a special remote worker tax form. Had this issue with my NY employer, and had to submit a specific telecommuter form to HR to stop the NY withholding.

0 coins

Olivia Evans

•

Just wanted to add some clarity on the Virginia 529 deduction limits since I see this question come up a lot. Virginia allows up to $4,000 per account per year for 529 contributions, and if you're married filing jointly, both spouses can deduct up to $4,000 each (so $8,000 total per account). Since you contributed $4,700, you can deduct $4,000 of that on your Virginia return this year. The remaining $700 doesn't carry forward for deduction purposes, but it's still a valid contribution toward your niece's education. Also, make sure you're contributing to a Virginia529 account or another qualifying state plan to get the deduction. The income source (California vs Virginia) definitely doesn't matter - what matters is your Virginia residency status when you file your state return.

0 coins

This is really helpful! I had no idea about the $4,000 per spouse limit for married filing jointly. Does this mean if my spouse and I each contribute $4,000 to the same 529 account for our child, we can deduct $8,000 total on our joint Virginia return? Or does it have to be separate accounts for each parent to get the full deduction?

0 coins

One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is the AMT (Alternative Minimum Tax) implications. Investment interest deductions that are allowed for regular tax purposes might be treated differently under AMT calculations. If you're subject to AMT, some of your investment interest deductions could be disallowed or limited further. Also, make sure you're not double-counting any expenses. For example, if you paid property taxes with the loan proceeds, you can't deduct both the property tax payment AND claim the loan interest as deductible - the interest portion used for property taxes would be non-deductible personal interest. Another consideration is state tax implications. Some states don't conform to federal rules for investment interest or home equity interest deductions, so you might need to make adjustments on your state return even if everything is properly handled federally. The allocation method you choose needs to be reasonable and consistently applied. Whatever approach you use for dividing the interest expense, document your methodology thoroughly in case you need to defend it later. The IRS appreciates clear, logical allocation methods backed by solid documentation.

0 coins

This is really helpful information about AMT implications that I hadn't considered! I'm potentially subject to AMT this year due to some stock option exercises. When you mention that investment interest deductions might be treated differently under AMT, does this mean I need to calculate my allowable investment interest deduction twice - once for regular tax and once for AMT? And if there's a difference, how do you handle that on the forms? I'm using Form 4952 for the investment interest calculation but I'm not sure how AMT factors into that process.

0 coins

@5509c0e41992 Yes, you're absolutely right that AMT can create additional complications! You do need to calculate investment interest limitations separately for AMT purposes. The tricky part is that certain types of investment income that count for regular tax purposes (like private activity bond interest) might be treated differently under AMT. For Form 4952, you'll complete it normally for regular tax purposes first. Then, if you're subject to AMT, you'll need to recalculate your net investment income using AMT rules on Form 6251. The investment interest deduction allowed under AMT might be different from your regular tax calculation. If there's a difference, the excess investment interest that's disallowed under AMT gets carried forward separately for AMT purposes. You'll need to track both regular tax and AMT carryforwards going forward, which can get quite complex. Given that you're dealing with stock option exercises (which often trigger AMT) AND mixed-use loan interest allocation, I'd strongly recommend working with a tax professional who has experience with AMT calculations. The interaction between these two complex areas can create some unexpected results, and the penalties for getting AMT calculations wrong are substantial.

0 coins

Malia Ponder

•

This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm dealing with a similar situation where I used a margin loan for multiple purposes. One additional consideration I wanted to mention is the wash sale rule implications if you're using loan proceeds to buy stocks. If you sell stocks at a loss and then use your margin loan to repurchase the same or substantially identical securities within 30 days, the wash sale rule could disallow the loss deduction, which would affect your net investment income calculation for Form 4952. This could indirectly impact how much of your investment interest expense you can actually deduct. Also, for anyone considering this type of financing strategy going forward, it might be worth opening separate accounts or taking separate loans for each intended use. While it's more complex to manage multiple credit facilities, it makes the interest allocation much cleaner from a tax perspective and reduces audit risk. The documentation requirements mentioned by @fd111dffc265 about maintaining clear paper trails really cannot be overstated. I've seen cases where taxpayers lost substantial deductions simply because they couldn't adequately document how loan proceeds were used, even when the underlying transactions were legitimate.

0 coins

@21ef95541142 Great point about the wash sale rule complications! I hadn't even thought about how that could affect the investment interest deduction calculation. This is getting quite complex with all the interconnected rules. Your suggestion about separate accounts for different purposes makes a lot of sense for future planning. It's making me think I should have structured my margin borrowing differently from the start. Do you know if there's any way to "clean up" the allocation retroactively, or are we stuck with whatever documentation we have from when the transactions originally occurred? Also, I'm curious about the practical aspects of managing multiple credit facilities. Did you find that brokerages are generally willing to set up multiple margin accounts for the same investor, or do you mean using different types of loans entirely (like a separate home equity line for home improvements)? The wash sale interaction is particularly concerning since I did do some tax loss harvesting around the same time I was making additional stock purchases with the loan proceeds. I'll definitely need to review those transactions to see if any wash sales occurred that might affect my Form 4952 calculations.

0 coins

I completely understand your concern about triggering IRS reporting - it's one of those things that can cause a lot of unnecessary anxiety when you're just trying to make a smart financial move! The good news is that transferring your own money between accounts in your name won't create any tax reporting requirements, regardless of the amounts. You're not generating new income - you're simply moving assets you already own and have already paid taxes on. A couple of additional points that might be helpful: **Timing considerations**: Since you're moving both checking ($15K) and savings ($32K), you might want to start with one account and then do the other a few days later. This gives you time to make sure the first transfer goes smoothly and keeps some funds accessible during the transition. **Documentation**: While not required for tax purposes, I'd recommend taking screenshots of your current account balances before the transfers and keeping all confirmation emails. This creates a clear paper trail showing you're moving your own money. **Interest rate benefit**: With current rates being so much better at credit unions, you're probably going to see a significant increase in interest income. Just remember that this new interest (unlike the transfers themselves) will be reportable on your taxes via 1099-INT forms. You're making a financially sound decision - don't let reporting worries hold you back from earning better returns on your money!

0 coins

This is such great advice! I'm actually going through this exact same situation right now and was getting overwhelmed by all the conflicting information I found online about bank transfer reporting requirements. Your suggestion about doing the transfers separately is really smart - I hadn't thought about keeping some funds accessible during the transition period. That definitely makes sense from a cash flow perspective. I'm curious about the documentation piece you mentioned. When you say taking screenshots of account balances, do you mean just the current balances or should I also capture recent transaction history? I want to make sure I have adequate records but don't want to go overboard if it's not necessary. The interest rate difference really is significant - I'm looking at going from about 0.1% to 4.2% APY, so even though the transfer itself isn't taxable, I'll definitely need to plan for the much higher 1099-INT next year. That's honestly a problem I'm happy to have though! Thanks for the reassurance that this is a straightforward process. Sometimes the fear of doing something wrong with finances can really hold you back from making beneficial moves.

0 coins

Sophie Duck

•

@2545f54b5f5b For documentation, I'd suggest capturing both current balances and maybe the last 30 days of transaction history from your original accounts. This creates a clear picture of your account activity leading up to the transfer and shows the money has been sitting in your accounts (rather than being rapidly moved around, which could theoretically raise questions). You don't need to go crazy with documentation, but having a complete snapshot can be helpful if you ever need to explain the source of funds. That interest rate jump from 0.1% to 4.2% is incredible! You're absolutely right that it's a good problem to have. On $47K total, you're looking at potentially earning around $1,900+ in interest annually versus maybe $47 at your current rate. Even after taxes, that's a significant improvement to your financial situation. The key thing to remember is that you're making a smart financial decision based on better returns. The transfer process itself is routine and won't create any tax complications - you're just optimizing where your existing money lives. Don't let the fear of paperwork keep you from earning literally thousands more per year in interest!

0 coins

NeonNova

•

Just to add another perspective - I moved $38k from my Wells Fargo accounts to a local credit union last summer and it was completely smooth. No tax implications whatsoever since I was just moving my own money. The credit union actually walked me through their process when I called ahead. They explained that electronic transfers between accounts with the same owner don't trigger any IRS reporting requirements, unlike cash deposits over $10k which do require Currency Transaction Reports. One thing I wish I'd known: they did put a 2-business-day hold on my larger transfer ($25k portion) just for verification purposes, even though I'd called ahead. It wasn't a problem, just meant I couldn't access those funds immediately. The smaller transfer ($13k) cleared the same day. The interest rate improvement has been fantastic - went from earning basically nothing to over $1,500 in interest income last year. That interest IS reported to the IRS on a 1099-INT, but that's a good problem to have! Just make sure to set aside a bit extra for taxes since you'll owe on that additional interest income. Your amounts are well within normal ranges and shouldn't cause any issues. The hardest part is probably just coordinating the timing so you don't have bills bouncing during the transition period.

0 coins

Sean Murphy

•

Thanks for sharing your real experience with this! It's really helpful to hear from someone who actually went through the process recently. The 2-day hold on the larger transfer is good to know about - I'll plan accordingly so I don't get caught off guard if that happens. That interest income difference is amazing! Going from basically zero to $1,500+ annually is such a huge improvement. I'm actually excited about having to deal with a larger 1099-INT next year because it means I'm finally earning decent returns on my savings. Your point about coordinating timing is spot on. I'm planning to keep enough in my current checking account to cover any automatic payments or bills until everything settles at the new credit union. The last thing I want is to have something bounce during the transition. Did you end up transferring everything at once, or did you do it in stages? I'm still debating whether to move both my checking and savings on the same day or space them out a bit.

0 coins

StarStrider

•

@6977afa77e2e I did mine in stages - moved the checking account funds first ($13k) and then waited about a week before moving the savings ($25k). This worked out well because it let me test the process with the smaller amount and make sure all my automatic payments transitioned properly before moving the larger sum. The staged approach also gave me a chance to build a relationship with the credit union staff. By the time I did the larger transfer, they already knew me and the process went even smoother. Plus, I never felt like I was completely without access to my money during the transition. One tip: make sure you update any direct deposits or automatic payments that hit your checking account before you close the old one. I almost forgot about a quarterly insurance payment that would have bounced if I hadn't caught it in time. Having that week between transfers gave me breathing room to handle those details. The interest difference really is life-changing when you see it add up over time. It's motivated me to be more intentional about where I keep my money and not just stick with the "convenient" big bank out of habit.

0 coins

As someone who went through this exact situation last year, I can tell you that being a month late on one quarterly payment isn't the end of the world! The IRS penalty for late estimated tax payments is calculated using an underpayment rate (currently around 8% annually), but it's only applied to the specific quarter you missed and for the time period you were late. Since you mentioned your estimated payments this year will exceed your total 2022 tax liability, you're likely protected by the safe harbor rule. If your timely payments equal at least 100% of last year's tax (or 110% if your AGI was over $150k), you should avoid penalties entirely. Go ahead and make that June 15th payment now through IRS Direct Pay - no special forms needed, just select "Estimated Tax" for 2023. The system will accept it even though it's late. Any penalty calculation will happen automatically when you file your 2023 return next year. One tip for the future: set calendar reminders for the weird quarterly dates (April 15, June 15, September 15, January 15). They definitely don't follow a logical 3-month pattern, which trips up most new contractors!

0 coins

Ravi Patel

•

This is really reassuring to hear from someone who's been through the same thing! The 8% rate sounds scary but I guess when it's just applied to one quarter for one month, it's not that bad. Quick question - when you say "timely payments," does that include this late June payment I'm about to make, or does it only count payments that were actually made on time? I want to make sure I understand the safe harbor calculation correctly. Also, thanks for the reminder tip about the weird dates. I've already added all the 2024 quarterly dates to my calendar so I don't make this mistake again!

0 coins

For the safe harbor calculation, unfortunately the late June payment won't count as "timely" for that specific quarter. However, don't let that discourage you! The safe harbor rule looks at your total payments for the year compared to last year's liability. Here's how it works: if your April, September, and January payments (the ones made on time) plus any withholding from other sources total at least 100% of your 2022 tax liability, you'll still be protected from penalties on the other quarters too. The safe harbor essentially covers your entire year if you meet the threshold. Even if you don't hit the safe harbor, the penalty on just one late quarterly payment is really minimal - probably under $50 based on typical contractor income levels. I ended up owing about $35 in penalties when I missed my September payment, and I learned it was way less stressful than I'd imagined. The calendar reminders are a game-changer! I also set mine for a week before each due date so I have time to calculate and transfer money if needed.

0 coins

I'm also a first-year 1099 contractor and made the exact same mistake! I thought quarterly meant every three months too - it's such a confusing system. Reading through these responses has been incredibly helpful. One thing I learned the hard way is to also check if your state has different quarterly payment deadlines. I'm in Virginia and somehow missed that our state deadlines don't always align with federal ones. Almost made the same mistake twice! For what it's worth, I used the IRS penalty calculator on their website to estimate what my late payment might cost, and it was much less scary than I expected. The peace of mind of knowing the approximate amount helped me stop stressing about it while waiting for any penalty notices. Good luck with your September payment - sounds like you've got a good plan in place now!

0 coins

Zoe Wang

•

Thanks for sharing your experience! It's oddly comforting to know I'm not the only one who made this assumption about quarterly payments. The system really is confusing for newcomers. That's a great point about state deadlines being different - I hadn't even thought to check that. I'm in Texas so no state income tax to worry about, but definitely something other contractors should keep in mind. I'm going to look up that IRS penalty calculator you mentioned. Getting an estimate beforehand sounds like it would help with the anxiety of not knowing what to expect. Did you find it pretty accurate compared to what you actually ended up owing?

0 coins

Just wanted to add that this mistake happens more often than you'd think. My broker did something similar last year when I transferred securities between accounts. They lost the original purchase date and reported everything as if I'd bought the shares the day they arrived in the new account. Make sure you check ALL your 1099-B forms carefully, especially if you: - Transferred securities between brokerages - Had any corporate actions (stock splits, mergers, etc.) - Participated in dividend reinvestment plans - Made wash sales These scenarios often cause reporting errors on 1099-Bs.

0 coins

This is so true. I had a nightmare with dividend reinvestment last year. Every reinvested dividend creates a new lot with its own purchase date, and my broker completely messed up the reporting when I sold.

0 coins

Dividend reinvestment is particularly problematic because you end up with dozens or hundreds of tiny lots, each with different basis and holding periods. Most brokers' systems struggle to track these properly, especially older systems. Corporate actions like splits and mergers also confuse their systems. I've seen cases where a stock split caused the broker to lose track of the original purchase date, similar to what OP is experiencing. Always worth double-checking these transactions carefully.

0 coins

This is exactly why I always keep my own detailed records of all stock purchases and sales, completely separate from what my brokerage reports. I use a simple spreadsheet with purchase dates, amounts, and prices for every transaction. When situations like this come up, I have my own documentation to back up the correct information. It's saved me multiple times when brokers made errors on 1099-B forms. I'd recommend everyone do this going forward - don't rely solely on your brokerage's record-keeping. For your current situation, definitely pursue this aggressively. The tax difference between short-term and long-term treatment on a substantial NVIDIA gain could be thousands of dollars. If you have any old account statements, email confirmations, or even bank records showing the original purchase in December 2020, use those to support your correction on Form 8949.

0 coins

This is excellent advice about keeping your own records! I wish I had started doing this from the beginning. Do you have any recommendations for how to organize the spreadsheet? I'm thinking of starting this system but want to make sure I'm tracking all the important details that might be needed for tax purposes or corrections like this.

0 coins

Prev1...11161117111811191120...5643Next