


Ask the community...
I've been following this thread as someone who recently completed the EIN application process for my Hungarian Kft., and I wanted to add a few observations that might help future applicants. First, the C-Corporation designation advice here is absolutely correct - I can confirm this worked perfectly for my Hungarian limited company. The IRS processed it without any questions or delays. One thing I'd add that I haven't seen mentioned: if you're applying during peak tax season (January-April), expect longer processing times. I submitted my SS-4 in March and it took nearly 4 weeks instead of the typical 2-3 weeks others have reported. The IRS international line confirmed this was due to higher application volumes during tax season. Also, regarding the international fax number (+1-304-707-9471), I recommend calling your fax service provider first to confirm they can send to US numbers. Some European fax services have restrictions on international transmissions that I discovered the hard way after my first attempt failed. For anyone still on the fence about those callback services mentioned earlier - I was initially skeptical but ended up using Claimyr when I needed to check my application status. It genuinely worked as described and saved me hours of frustration trying to get through on my own. The key takeaway is that this process is very manageable once you know the right steps. European limited companies should confidently select C-Corporation, use "Banking purpose" if that's your intent, and be patient with processing times. This community's collective experience makes it much easier for newcomers to navigate successfully.
This is such a helpful comprehensive summary! As someone completely new to this process with a Danish ApS company, I really appreciate how this thread has evolved into a complete guide for European limited companies applying for EINs. The timing insight about peak tax season is particularly valuable - I was planning to submit next month but now I'll consider waiting until after April to avoid the longer processing delays. Four weeks versus two weeks is a significant difference when you're trying to get business operations set up. Your point about checking with fax service providers is also something I wouldn't have thought of. I'll definitely verify international transmission capabilities before attempting to send my SS-4. It's amazing how consistent everyone's experience has been across different European countries - Hungarian Kft, Romanian SRL, German GmbH, etc. All successfully using the C-Corporation designation. This gives me complete confidence that my Danish ApS will follow the same pattern. Thanks to everyone who contributed their real-world experiences here. This thread should be bookmarked by anyone dealing with European company EIN applications!
This has been an incredibly thorough and helpful thread! I'm preparing to apply for an EIN for my Swiss GmbH and this collective wisdom has answered virtually every question I had. The consistency across all European limited company types is remarkable - whether it's Belgian, German, Romanian, Hungarian, or any other EU limited liability structure, the C-Corporation designation seems to be the universal solution. This gives me complete confidence moving forward. A few key takeaways I'm noting from everyone's experiences: - Use "Banking purpose" if that's your actual reason (not "Started new business" for existing companies) - Format addresses clearly with country name in caps - Use personal name as responsible party rather than company name - International fax number: +1-304-707-9471 - Expect 2-4 weeks processing time (longer during tax season) - Keep company registration docs handy but they likely won't be requested For anyone still reading this thread in the future, this is basically a complete playbook for European companies getting US EINs. The community knowledge here is invaluable and could save hours of research and potential mistakes. Thanks to everyone who shared their real experiences - this is exactly the kind of practical guidance that makes these bureaucratic processes manageable!
This thread has been absolutely invaluable! As someone just getting started with this process, I can't thank everyone enough for sharing their real-world experiences. Reading through all these different European company types successfully using the same approach gives me so much confidence. I'm particularly grateful for the detailed practical tips that you'd never find in official documentation - things like the address formatting, timing around tax season, and even the fax service provider check. These are the kinds of details that can make or break an application. One quick question for the group: has anyone had experience with multiple EIN applications for the same company? My company might need separate EINs for different business activities in the US down the line. Is that something that's commonly done or should we try to handle everything under one EIN? Thanks again to this amazing community for creating such a comprehensive resource!
I went through this exact same situation a couple years ago when I started taking personal finance seriously! That initial shock of seeing your refund drop is really jarring, but you're absolutely making the right financial moves. One thing that helped me was thinking about it differently - that $520 difference in your refund represents roughly $2,364 in interest income you earned (assuming you're in the 22% bracket). So even after taxes, you still came out ahead by about $1,844 compared to keeping that money in a regular checking account earning nothing! For next year, I'd recommend starting with the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator in January to get a baseline, then checking it again around June when you have a clearer picture of your actual interest earnings. Interest rates can change throughout the year, so your projections might need adjusting. Also consider that if your savings continue to grow (which sounds like the plan!), your interest income will keep increasing, so you'll want to revisit your withholding annually. The key is just staying on top of it rather than letting it surprise you again. You've got this!
This is such a helpful way to frame it! I never thought about calculating backwards from the tax impact to see how much interest I actually earned. That really puts it in perspective - earning nearly $2,400 in interest is definitely worth dealing with a slightly more complex tax situation. Your point about revisiting the withholding annually is spot on. I think part of my stress was thinking I needed to get this perfect and never think about it again, but it makes sense that as my savings grow and interest rates potentially change, I'll need to adjust accordingly. Thanks for the encouragement! It's reassuring to hear from someone who went through the same learning curve.
This is exactly what happened to me when I first opened my HYSA! The key thing to remember is that you're still way ahead financially - that $520 reduction in your refund likely represents around $2,300+ in interest income you earned (depending on your tax bracket), so you netted roughly $1,800 more than if you'd kept it in a regular savings account. For withholding adjustments, I'd recommend using the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator tool mid-year once you have a better sense of your actual interest earnings. HYSA rates can fluctuate, so your January estimate might be off by year-end. A simple approach: take your current quarterly interest earnings, multiply by 4 to get an annual estimate, then multiply that by your marginal tax rate (probably 22% based on your situation) to see how much extra tax you'll owe. Divide that by your number of paychecks per year and add that amount to line 4(c) on your W-4. Don't let this discourage you from the HYSA - it's still the smart move! You're just learning how to manage the tax side of building wealth, which is a good problem to have.
One creative approach worth exploring - have you considered doing a partial stock sale for certain assets and an asset sale for others? We did this with our manufacturing business. Sold some specialized equipment as assets (buyer wanted the depreciation) but did a stock transaction for the real estate holding portion. Saved a bundle on taxes without scaring away the buyer.
Great question about the tax implications! One thing I'd add to the excellent advice already given is to make sure you understand how your S-Corp's accumulated adjustments account (AAA) and any accumulated earnings and profits (AE&P) from prior C-Corp years will be affected by the asset sale. When the S-Corp recognizes gain from the asset sale, it increases the AAA, which then flows through to you as shareholders. This can actually be beneficial because it increases your stock basis, which might help offset some of the tax impact when you eventually liquidate the S-Corp after the sale. Also, since you mentioned installment payments over 5 years, consider whether you want to make a Section 338(h)(10) election if the buyer is willing. This can sometimes provide better tax treatment by treating the transaction as an asset sale for tax purposes while still being a stock sale legally. It requires buyer cooperation but might be worth exploring with your team. The depreciation recapture timing that others mentioned is crucial - with installment sales from S-Corps, the recapture generally gets accelerated and recognized in year one even though the payments are spread out. This can create a significant tax burden upfront that you'll want to plan for.
This is really helpful information about the AAA and potential Section 338(h)(10) election! I hadn't considered how the accumulated adjustments account would be affected. Just to clarify - when you mention that the depreciation recapture gets "accelerated" in year one of an installment sale from an S-Corp, does that mean ALL of the recapture gets recognized immediately regardless of the payment schedule? That seems like it could create a massive tax hit in the first year if you have significant depreciated assets.
I'm so sorry you're going through this - identity theft is incredibly stressful, but you're absolutely doing the right thing by seeking advice quickly! From my experience working in financial fraud prevention, here are the key steps I'd recommend: **Immediate actions:** 1. **Don't contact the company first** - go straight to the IRS. File Form 14039 (Identity Theft Affidavit) online at irs.gov immediately to flag your account 2. **Call the IRS Identity Theft Hotline** at 800-908-4490 to report this and get a case number for tracking 3. **File your legitimate tax return ASAP** - only report income you actually earned. Include a statement referencing your identity theft case **Protect yourself further:** - Check your Social Security earnings record at ssa.gov to see if there's other fraudulent employment history - Place fraud alerts on all three credit bureau reports (Experian, Equifax, TransUnion) - Request your wage and income transcript from the IRS online to see if there are other fraudulent tax documents you don't know about yet **Important:** The IRS will likely issue you an Identity Protection PIN (IP PIN) for future years, which adds an extra layer of security to prevent future tax fraud. The process typically takes 3-6 months to fully resolve, but you'll have peace of mind much sooner once your account is properly flagged. The IRS has really improved their identity theft procedures - you've got this!
This is really solid advice from someone with fraud prevention experience! I'm particularly glad you emphasized not contacting the company first - I was actually leaning toward calling them right away, but it makes sense to establish the identity theft case with the IRS first to protect myself. Quick question about the IP PIN system - once I get one, does that mean I can only file taxes electronically going forward, or can I still file paper returns if I prefer? Also, is there any downside to having an IP PIN that I should be aware of? It sounds like a great security feature, but I want to understand what I'm signing up for long-term. The timeline of 3-6 months for full resolution is actually better than I was expecting based on some horror stories I've heard about dealing with government agencies. Thanks for the reassurance that the IRS has improved their procedures - that gives me hope that this won't drag on forever!
I can't imagine how stressful this must be for you! Identity theft involving tax documents is unfortunately becoming more common, but the good news is that there are clear steps to resolve it. The advice here about filing Form 14039 immediately is absolutely correct - this should be your first priority. I'd also recommend creating an online account with the IRS at irs.gov if you don't already have one, as this will make it easier to track your case and access your transcripts to see if there are other fraudulent documents you don't know about yet. One thing I haven't seen mentioned is to also check with your state's Department of Revenue if you live in a state with income tax. They often have separate procedures for identity theft cases, and you'll want to protect your state tax account as well. Document everything - dates, times, who you spoke with, case numbers, etc. Keep copies of all forms you submit and any correspondence you receive. This paper trail will be invaluable if you need to reference your case later. The IP PIN system really is a game-changer for preventing future fraud. Yes, it adds a small extra step each year when you file taxes, but the security it provides is well worth it. You'll get through this - stay organized and follow the steps systematically!
Mia Alvarez
I've been doing my small business taxes for about 5 years now, and here's a practical tip: keep very clear records separating your different types of inventory and supplies throughout the year. I use a spreadsheet with columns for: - Finished products I buy for resale (PURCHASES) - Raw materials for products I make (MATERIALS & SUPPLIES) - Packaging materials (SHIPPING SUPPLIES) - General business expenses (separate from COGS) Makes tax time way easier when everything is already categorized correctly!
0 coins
Ella Thompson
ā¢That's a really useful system! Do you have any template or example you could share? I need to get more organized with my record keeping.
0 coins
Mia Alvarez
ā¢I don't have a shareable template, but it's pretty straightforward to create. I have columns for Date, Vendor, Item Description, Category (using the four I mentioned), Amount, and Payment Method. I also include a Notes column where I can add details about which specific products the materials are for. The key is consistency throughout the year. I spend about 10 minutes each week updating it rather than trying to sort through a year's worth of receipts at tax time. For physical receipts, I take a photo and name the file with the date and vendor so I can easily find it if needed.
0 coins
Carter Holmes
Don't forget that your inventory method also matters! If you're using the accrual method, you need to count your remaining inventory at the end of the year and subtract that value from your COGS. So if you bought $5000 in supplies but have $1000 worth left at year end, your actual COGS would be $4000.
0 coins
Sophia Long
ā¢How do you determine the value of remaining inventory? Like if I bought paper in bulk at different prices throughout the year, how do I know what value to assign to the leftover paper?
0 coins
Yara Haddad
ā¢For inventory valuation, you typically use either FIFO (First In, First Out) or weighted average cost method. With FIFO, you assume the oldest inventory is used first, so your remaining paper would be valued at the most recent purchase prices. With weighted average, you calculate the average cost per unit across all purchases. For example, if you bought 1000 sheets at $0.10 each in January and 1000 sheets at $0.12 each in June, and you have 500 sheets left, under FIFO those 500 sheets would be valued at $0.12 each ($60 total). Under weighted average, they'd be valued at $0.11 each ($55 total). Most small businesses find FIFO easier to track, but you need to be consistent with whichever method you choose year over year.
0 coins