I would recommend using the IRS Free File program if your income is that low. Go directly to IRS.gov and look for Free File options. They have partnerships with tax software companies that will let you file completely free if your income is below certain thresholds, which clearly you would qualify for with zero income.

I was in almost the exact same situation last year - zero income and two kids. Yes, you can absolutely claim the Child Tax Credit! The key is understanding that part of it is "refundable" which means you get money back even if you don't owe any taxes. For 2024 taxes (filing in 2025), you can get up to $1,600 per qualifying child under 17 through the Additional Child Tax Credit, even with zero income. There's no special non-filer tool this year - you just file a regular tax return showing $0 income. I used the IRS Free File program on IRS.gov and it walked me through everything. Make sure you have your kids' Social Security numbers and can prove they lived with you more than half the year. The process was actually simpler than I expected, and I got about $3,200 total for my two kids. It was a huge help during a really tough time. Don't let anyone tell you that you can't get tax credits without income - that's one of the biggest misconceptions out there!

Is there a way to know in advance if Form 1116 would give a better result than the simplified credit? I have about $450 in foreign taxes paid across several funds, so I'm right in the middle where either might be better.

Looking at your specific numbers, I'd recommend starting with the simplified method since your foreign tax paid is only $6.28 (well under the $300 threshold). However, there's an important detail in your post that caught my attention - you mentioned the "Ordinary Dividends" shows nothing for 2024 but $765.84 paid/adjusted in 2025 for 2024. This timing difference might affect which tax year you can claim the credit. Generally, you claim the foreign tax credit in the year the foreign taxes were actually paid or accrued, not necessarily when the dividend was received. Since your foreign tax of $6.28 was likely withheld when the dividends were paid by the foreign companies, you should be able to claim it for 2024. For your situation, just take the $6.28 credit directly on Schedule 3 (Form 1040), line 1. No need to complicate things with Form 1116 unless you have other foreign investments that push your total foreign taxes over $300. The simplified method will give you the full credit amount in your case.

I went through this exact same nightmare last year! The key thing that finally clicked for me was understanding that the W4 redesign was actually meant to fix the multiple jobs problem, but it requires you to coordinate ALL your W4s together as a household unit, not fill them out individually. Here's what worked for us (similar situation - I have 2 jobs, spouse has 1): 1. Only fill out the "multiple jobs" section (Step 2) on ONE person's W4 - typically the highest earner 2. On that same W4, put ALL the extra withholding needed in Step 4(c) 3. Leave the other W4s simple - just filing status and basic info The reason the IRS calculator, worksheet, and CPA are giving you different numbers is they're making different assumptions about your remaining pay periods and year-to-date withholding. The IRS calculator is usually most accurate IF you input everything correctly. One trick that helped me: I used last year's tax return to "back-calculate" what our effective tax rate should be, then compared that to what was actually being withheld from all our paychecks combined. The gap was exactly what I needed to add as extra withholding. Also, definitely update Step 4(b) for your itemized deductions - that mortgage interest deduction will reduce how much you need to withhold. The payroll vendor switch in July probably messed up your withholding calculations midyear, which is why you're seeing the difference in your paystubs. When you redo W4s midyear, the new calculations don't account for what was already withheld under the old settings.

I've been through this exact frustration with the new W4 system! As someone who's helped many people navigate multiple job withholding issues, I can tell you that the $450-500 recommendation from the IRS calculator is likely your best bet if you input all the information accurately. The reason you're getting such different numbers is timing and methodology: - The IRS calculator accounts for your year-to-date underpayment AND projects forward - The worksheet gives a simplified annual estimate that doesn't account for catching up - Your CPA's method only covers what you owed last year, not the current year shortfall Since you mentioned the payroll vendor switch in July caused your withholding to drop, you're absolutely right that you need to withhold more than just next year's amount - you need to catch up on 8+ months of underpayment. One important point about your itemized deductions: definitely update Step 4(b) on your W4 to account for itemizing instead of taking the standard deduction. This will reduce your withholding appropriately since you'll have higher deductions from your mortgage interest. For coordination between your three jobs, I'd recommend putting ALL the extra withholding on your highest-paying job's W4 (Step 4c) and leaving your other W4s and your husband's W4 with just basic married filing jointly status. This makes it much easier to track and adjust if needed. The good news is once you get this sorted out, the new W4 system will actually be more accurate than the old one for your multiple job situation!

DONT PANIC its normal. Give it a few days to update properly. The different systems dont talk to eachother in realtime

This is super common during tax season! The IRS "Where's My Refund" tool can lag behind what tax prep companies show by 24-48 hours. "Received" and "accepted" basically mean the same thing - your return is in the system. For the amount confusion, remember the IRS tool only shows your FEDERAL refund amount, not state. Your state refund will be a separate deposit processed by your state tax agency. Check your state's revenue department website to track that one separately!

I'm dealing with a similar situation as a newer member here. My husband just retired from the Army after 22 years and we're navigating all these tax changes for the first time. This thread has been incredibly eye-opening! One thing I wanted to add that might help others - when we were preparing for his retirement, the transition assistance program briefly covered taxes but didn't go into detail about specific credits like EIC. I wish I had known to research this beforehand because we definitely filed incorrectly our first year, including his retirement pay as earned income for EIC calculations. We ended up having to file an amended return and pay back the credit plus some penalties. It wasn't huge amounts, but it was definitely a learning experience. Now I'm wondering if we should go back and check our state taxes too, since several people mentioned state-specific benefits for military retirement. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences and resources here. It's so helpful to learn from people who have actually been through this rather than trying to decode IRS publications on our own!

This has been such a comprehensive discussion! As someone who just joined this community, I'm amazed at how helpful everyone has been in breaking down this complex topic. I'm currently active duty Navy (about 10 years in) and already starting to think about retirement planning and tax implications. Reading through everyone's experiences here has been incredibly valuable for understanding what to expect when I eventually transition to civilian life. One question that came to mind - for those of you who mentioned using tax software or professionals, do you have recommendations for ones that are particularly good with military-specific tax situations? I've been using basic software for my active duty taxes, but it sounds like retirement will bring a whole new level of complexity that might require more specialized help. Also, thank you to everyone who shared resources like the IRS publications, Legal Assistance Office, and various online tools. I'm bookmarking this entire thread for future reference when I get closer to retirement. It's clear that understanding these rules upfront can save a lot of headaches (and money) down the road. The distinction between earned and unearned income for EIC purposes is now crystal clear thanks to all your explanations. Really appreciate this community for sharing real-world experiences and practical advice!