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Liv Park

How to calculate mortgage interest deduction limit with two properties - Pub 936 question

I'm struggling with figuring out how to handle the mortgage interest deduction limit when dealing with two properties in the same tax year. I sold my old house in October and bought a new home in September (yeah, had some overlap). To keep things simple, let's say I paid about $13,500 interest on my old place and another $13,500 on the new property. Here's my monthly mortgage balance breakdown: January - Old house: $337,500 February - Old house: $330,750 March - Old house: $324,000 April - Old house: $317,250 May - Old house: $310,500 June - Old house: $303,750 July - Old house: $297,000 August - Old house: $290,250 September - Old house: $283,500 + New house: $1,485,000 = $1,768,500 total October - New house only: $1,478,250 November - New house only: $1,471,500 December - New house only: $1,464,750 I've looked at Pub 936 but I'm confused about how to calculate the limitation properly with two properties. It seems like there are different approaches, but I'm not sure which one to use. Has anyone dealt with this situation before? I want to make sure I'm doing this right for my 2025 taxes.

The mortgage interest limitation can definitely be tricky when you've owned two properties in the same year. Here's how to approach it: For mortgage interest deduction purposes, you need to look at the total acquisition debt limit of $750,000 (for post-2017 mortgages). Since you had both properties simultaneously for a short period, you'll need to apply the limitation accordingly. The simplest approach would be to calculate the average balance of your mortgage debt throughout the year. Add up all your monthly ending balances and divide by 12. Then determine what percentage of that average is below the $750,000 threshold. That percentage of your total mortgage interest would be deductible. Another approach is to calculate separately for each property based on how many months you owned them, then combine the results. For example, apply the limitation to the old property for 9 months, and to the new property for 4 months. Remember that points paid on your new mortgage might be deductible as well, but those are calculated separately from the regular mortgage interest.

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Thanks for the explanation, but I'm still confused about one thing - do I need to track this monthly or can I just use the beginning and ending balances for the year? Also, does it matter that my new home's mortgage exceeds the $750k limit while my old one was under it?

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For the most accurate calculation, tracking monthly is better than just using beginning and ending balances. Monthly tracking gives you a true picture of your average mortgage balance throughout the year. Yes, it does matter that your new mortgage exceeds the $750k limit while the old one was under. For the months you only had the old mortgage (January through August), you can deduct 100% of that interest since it was under the limit. For September when you had both, you'll need to apply the limitation since your combined balance exceeded $750k. Then for October through December, you'll need to apply a partial limitation, deducting only the interest that relates to the first $750k of your new mortgage balance.

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I went through almost exactly this situation last year and found an amazing tool that saved me hours of complicated calculations. I used https://taxr.ai to analyze all my mortgage documents and it automatically calculated the correct mortgage interest deduction with the acquisition debt limits. My situation was even more complicated because I had refinanced my first property before selling it. The taxr.ai system analyzed my closing documents, mortgage statements, and tax forms, then showed me exactly how to properly allocate the interest between both properties while staying within the IRS guidelines. It even explained which portions were fully deductible and which needed to be limited due to the $750k cap.

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Does this taxr.ai thing work if I have rental properties too? I've got my primary residence plus two rentals and my CPA seems confused about how to handle the mortgage interest properly across all three.

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I'm skeptical about using a tool like this. How do you know it's applying the rules correctly? I'd be worried about trusting my tax deductions to some random website. Did you verify the calculations it gave you?

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Yes, it absolutely works with rental properties too. The system categorizes each property and applies the right rules for each type. For rentals, it handles the mortgage interest as a business expense rather than a Schedule A deduction, and it knows to apply the different limitations accordingly. I totally understand the skepticism! I actually ran the numbers manually first and then compared them to what taxr.ai calculated. They matched perfectly, but the tool saved me hours of work and explained certain nuances I hadn't considered. It also provided documentation showing exactly how each calculation was performed with references to the specific IRS rules that applied.

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Just wanted to update - I decided to give taxr.ai a try despite my initial skepticism, and I'm genuinely impressed. I uploaded my mortgage statements for both properties and it immediately identified that I had a home sale/purchase situation. The tool analyzed my documents and showed me exactly how to calculate the mortgage interest deduction with the proper limitations. It even flagged that I had some home equity loan interest mixed in that needed to be treated differently! This would have caused major headaches if I'd missed it. The step-by-step explanation referenced the exact sections of Publication 936 that applied to my situation. Definitely worth checking out if you're in this situation.

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I had a similar situation with overlapping mortgages last year and spent WEEKS trying to get someone at the IRS to confirm my calculations. I called literally 17 times and either got disconnected or was on hold for hours without ever speaking to anyone. So frustrating! I finally found https://claimyr.com and watched their demo video here: https://youtu.be/_kiP6q8DX5c. They got me connected to an IRS agent in about 20 minutes! The agent walked me through exactly how to handle the mortgage interest deduction with two properties, confirmed my interpretation of Pub 936 was correct, and even emailed me documentation I could keep for my records.

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How does this Claimyr thing actually work? Is it just a fancy way to call the IRS or do they do something special? The IRS wait times are ridiculous - I tried calling about my mortgage interest question last week and gave up after an hour on hold.

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Yeah right. There's no way anyone can get through to the IRS that fast. I've been trying for months about a simple question. Either you got incredibly lucky or this is some kind of scam. How much did they charge you for this "miracle" service?

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It's actually pretty straightforward - they use technology that monitors the IRS phone lines and joins the queue for you. When an agent is about to answer, they call you and connect you directly. So you don't have to wait on hold personally - their system does it for you. I was super skeptical at first too. But I had already wasted so many hours trying to get through that I figured it was worth a try. And yes, I really did get connected in about 20 minutes. It wasn't luck - they have data on the best times to call and their system optimizes for that. The IRS agent I spoke with was really helpful and confirmed exactly how to handle my overlapping mortgage interest situation.

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I owe everyone here an apology. After my skeptical comment, I decided to try Claimyr myself because I was desperate to get an answer about my mortgage interest question before filing. I honestly couldn't believe it would work, but I was connected to an IRS representative in about 15 minutes! The agent I spoke with was incredibly helpful and walked me through exactly how to calculate my mortgage interest deduction with two properties. They confirmed I should use the average balance method from Pub 936 and explained how to properly allocate the interest for the months I owned both homes. I've been stressing about this for weeks, and now I have an official answer directly from the IRS. Sorry for being so negative before - this service actually delivered.

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Another approach that works (and what I did for my 2024 taxes) is to use the simplified method in Pub 936. You take the average of your beginning and ending balance for each month, add all months together, and divide by 12. Then calculate what percentage of that average balance falls under the $750k limit. For example, if your average monthly balance was $900k, then 750/900 = 83.3% of your interest would be deductible. Super easy math and my CPA said this is perfectly acceptable to the IRS.

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Would this still work if you had a HELOC on one of the properties? I'm in a similar situation but also have a home equity line that I used for home improvements on the property I sold.

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Yes, it would still work with a HELOC, but there's an important distinction to make. If the HELOC was used for home improvements on the property it's secured by, then it's treated as acquisition debt and subject to the same $750k limit when combined with your main mortgage. If the HELOC was used for anything else (like paying off credit cards or buying a car), then it's considered home equity debt, and the interest is no longer deductible at all since the 2018 tax law changes.

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Don't overthink this! The IRS isn't likely to scrutinize your exact method as long as it's reasonable. I was in this exact situation and just used the simplified average method. Calculate the average balance across all 12 months and compare to the $750k limit. If your average is under $750k, deduct all the interest. If it's over, deduct proportionally.

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I heard from a tax preparer that the IRS actually does care about the exact method, especially if you're audited. Is there an "official" way that's considered safest?

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I should clarify - the IRS cares that you use a reasonable and consistent method, but Publication 936 actually allows for different approaches as long as they're reasonable. The audit risk comes from not having any method at all or deducting interest you aren't entitled to. The "safest" approach is to use one of the specific methods outlined in Publication 936 - either the simplified average balance method or the exact calculation method where you apply the limitation separately for each month. Both are explicitly approved by the IRS. Just be sure you can explain and document whichever method you choose.

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I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now - sold my primary residence in November and bought a new one in August, so I had overlapping mortgages for a few months. The mortgage interest calculation has been giving me nightmares! After reading through all these responses, I think I'm going to try the simplified average balance method that @Margot Quinn mentioned. It seems like the most straightforward approach and my tax software should be able to handle it easily. One question though - when you're calculating the average balance, do you include the principal payments made during the year or just use the outstanding balance at the end of each month? I want to make sure I'm doing this correctly before I file. Also, has anyone here actually been audited on this specific issue? I'm curious if the IRS really does scrutinize the calculation method or if they're more concerned with whether you're claiming too much interest overall.

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For the average balance calculation, you should use the outstanding balance at the end of each month after principal payments have been made. That gives you the most accurate picture of what you actually owed during each period. I haven't been audited on this specific issue, but I did have a friend who went through an audit a couple years ago for mortgage interest. The IRS examiner was mainly focused on making sure the total interest claimed matched the 1098 forms and that the taxpayer had a reasonable method for applying the debt limit. They didn't seem to care whether it was the simplified average method or the month-by-month calculation, as long as it was consistent and well-documented. @Margot Quinn s'simplified approach really is the way to go if you want to keep things straightforward. Just make sure you keep all your mortgage statements showing the monthly balances in case you ever need to support your calculation.

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I went through this exact scenario two years ago and learned some hard lessons that might help you avoid my mistakes. The key thing I wish I'd known upfront is that you need to be super careful about how you track the dates and balances. When I first tried to calculate this myself, I made the error of using my closing dates instead of the actual months I was making payments. The IRS looks at when you're actually obligated to pay interest, not just when you technically owned the properties. So for your September overlap month, make sure you're only counting the interest you actually paid on both mortgages during that specific period. Also, keep detailed records of every payment you made. I ended up having to reconstruct my payment history from bank statements because my mortgage servicer's year-end statement didn't clearly show the month-by-month breakdown I needed. It was a nightmare during tax prep. One more tip - if your new mortgage had any points or origination fees, those might be deductible separately from the regular interest, but they have their own rules about whether you can deduct them all in year one or need to amortize them over the life of the loan. Don't forget to check on that piece too.

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This is incredibly helpful advice, thank you! I'm just starting to work through my mortgage interest calculations and I hadn't even thought about the distinction between ownership dates vs. payment dates. That could have really tripped me up. Quick question about the points you mentioned - if I paid points on my new mortgage in September, but the loan was for more than $750k, do I need to apply the same proportional limitation to the points deduction? Or are points treated differently than regular mortgage interest when it comes to the debt limit? Also, did you end up using one of the online tools that others mentioned, or did you stick with manual calculations after learning from your initial mistakes?

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