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Has anyone here used TurboTax or similar software for estate tax filings? I'm wondering if it's worth paying for the full version or if I should just work with an accountant for my mom's estate. It's pretty simple - under the threshold, sold a house and car, no income generated.
I used H&R Block for my father's estate - NOT worth it. The software didn't clearly explain the difference between estate income and principal distributions. I ended up consulting with an accountant anyway who told me I didn't even need to file most of what the software was prompting me for. For a simple estate, I'd just file Form 1041 directly or consult briefly with an accountant rather than using software.
I went through this exact same situation with my father's estate last year. You're absolutely right that you don't need Form 706 since you're well under the threshold. However, I'd strongly recommend filing a final Form 1041 even though there was no income generated. The key thing to understand is that Form 1041 serves as the "final accounting" to the IRS that the estate is being properly closed. You'll check the "Final return" box and can show $0 income, but it creates an official record that everything was handled correctly. For the distributions, since you're only distributing principal (not income), the beneficiaries don't need to report these as taxable income on their personal returns. The step-up in basis at death means you and your sister inherit the assets at their fair market value as of your mom's date of death, so selling at or below that value doesn't create taxable gains. Keep detailed records of the date-of-death appraisals and the actual sale prices - this documentation will be important if there are ever any questions. Since you sold everything at a loss compared to the appraised values, you're in good shape tax-wise. One last tip: make sure to get a final closing letter from the bank when you close the estate account. Having that official documentation helps confirm everything was properly wound up.
This is really comprehensive advice, thank you! I'm new to handling estate matters and had no idea about the "final accounting" purpose of Form 1041. That makes so much more sense now why it would be recommended even with no income to report. Quick question about the final closing letter from the bank - is this something I need to specifically request, or do they typically provide it automatically when closing an estate account? I want to make sure I don't miss getting that documentation before we finish everything up. Also, when you mention keeping records of date-of-death appraisals versus sale prices, how long should those be retained? Is there a specific timeframe the IRS could potentially ask for these documents?
Just wanted to add one more important point that hasn't been mentioned yet - the timing of when you receive your W-2G matters for tax purposes. If you win big late in December, you might not receive the W-2G until January of the following year, but you're still required to report that income on the tax return for the year you actually won the money. So if you hit a big parlay on December 28th, 2024, that income goes on your 2024 tax return even if DraftKings doesn't mail you the W-2G until January 2025. This is different from some other tax documents that follow when you receive the form rather than when the activity occurred. I've seen people get confused about this and accidentally report gambling winnings in the wrong tax year, which can cause issues with the IRS since they'll have the W-2G showing up in their system for the correct year. Also worth noting - if you're a professional gambler (rare, but it happens), the tax treatment is completely different and these W-2G thresholds don't apply the same way. But for casual bettors, the info everyone else shared is spot on.
This is really helpful timing info! I had no idea about the December/January timing issue. Quick follow-up question - if I have losses throughout 2024 but then hit a big win in late December that puts me net positive for the year, do I still need to report all the individual winning sessions from earlier in the year as income? Or can I just report the net amount? I'm trying to figure out if I need to go back and reconstruct every single bet I made this year or if the year-end summary from DraftKings is sufficient for tax purposes.
Unfortunately, you need to report ALL gambling winnings as income, not just your net amount. Each winning session/bet is considered separate taxable income, even if you had losses on other days that offset those wins. So yes, you'd technically need to report all those individual winning sessions from throughout the year as income on your tax return. The good news is that if you itemize deductions, you can then deduct your gambling losses up to the amount of your winnings on Schedule A. The year-end summary from DraftKings is helpful for your records, but for tax purposes you're supposed to report the gross winnings amount. Many people do use the summary as a reasonable approximation, but technically the IRS wants you to track each winning session. This is why keeping detailed records throughout the year (or using something like those tax tools others mentioned) can be really valuable. It's one of those areas where the tax code is pretty strict in theory, but enforcement varies in practice for casual recreational bettors.
Just to clarify something that might be causing confusion - the $600 AND 300x rule applies to each individual winning bet/session, not your cumulative activity for the year. So if you win $800 on a $5 bet (160x), no W-2G. But if you win $1,500 on a $5 bet (300x), you'd get a W-2G. However, DraftKings and other platforms are also required to issue a 1099-MISC if your total net winnings for the year exceed $600, regardless of whether any single bet triggered a W-2G. This is separate from the W-2G requirement. One thing I haven't seen mentioned is that different states may have their own reporting requirements too. Some states require platforms to report gambling winnings at lower thresholds than federal requirements. So depending on where you live, you might receive state tax forms even if you don't hit the federal W-2G threshold. Also, make sure you understand the difference between "net winnings" and "gross winnings" on your tax forms - it can be confusing when you're trying to reconcile everything at tax time.
This is super helpful clarification! I think the distinction between individual bet thresholds vs annual cumulative reporting is what was confusing me the most. So just to make sure I understand correctly - even if none of my individual bets trigger a W-2G, I could still get a 1099-MISC at year-end if my total profits exceed $600? And regarding state requirements, do you know if there's an easy way to find out what my specific state's thresholds are? I'm in Illinois and wondering if they have different rules since they legalized sports betting relatively recently.
Don't forget to check if your state has any special rules about this! Some states that run their own marketplaces have different policies than the federal marketplace. For example, I live in California which has Covered California instead of healthcare.gov, and they have some additional assistance programs that can help in situations like this. Worth checking if your state has anything similar!
I'm in Florida which uses the federal marketplace, so I don't think there are any state-specific programs that would help me. But that's a good tip for others who might be in states with their own marketplaces! I've been researching this more and it looks like my best option is to carefully document my income changes on Form 8962 and hope I qualify for one of the repayment caps. My total income for the year will definitely be under 400% FPL, so at least there should be some limit to how much I have to pay back.
I went through this exact same situation a couple years ago and I totally understand your frustration! The good news is that you likely won't have to pay back the full $1,750 if your annual income is below certain thresholds. Since you were unemployed for part of the year and then got a job, your total annual income might still qualify you for repayment limitations. If your household income is below 400% of the Federal Poverty Level (around $58,320 for a single person in 2024), there are caps on how much you have to repay. The key is properly filling out Form 8962. Make sure you accurately report your coverage months (sounds like January through May) and your actual annual income including both your unemployment period and your employment income. The form has provisions for partial-year coverage situations exactly like yours. You did everything right by reporting honestly and canceling coverage when you got employer insurance! The system is designed to reconcile based on your full-year income, but it also has protections to prevent people from owing back huge amounts. Don't panic - just make sure you're calculating everything correctly on your tax return.
This is really helpful to hear from someone who's been through the same situation! I'm definitely feeling less panicked now knowing there are repayment caps. Quick question - when you filled out Form 8962, did you need any special documentation to prove your unemployment period and when you started your new job? I want to make sure I have everything ready in case the IRS asks for verification of my income changes throughout the year. Also, do you remember roughly what percentage of your credits you ended up having to repay? I'm trying to get a sense of what to expect so I can plan accordingly.
You should talk to your boss about making you legitimate. Just mention that you need proper documentation for apartment applications and loans, not even mentioning taxes. Many small business owners will switch you to proper payroll when they realize it matters to you for housing. Worked for me! My landscaping boss switched me from cash to proper payroll once I told him I was trying to get approved for a car loan.
This is actually good advice. I did something similar with a restaurant job. Just approached it from the "I need documentation for my apartment" angle rather than "you're breaking tax law" and my boss was surprisingly accommodating. Worth a try before going the self-reporting route.
I was in almost the exact same situation last year with a roofing company. Here's what I learned after going through this process: First, don't stress too much about "getting your boss in trouble." The IRS processes millions of Schedule C filings every year and they're not actively cross-referencing every one to hunt down employers. They're way more interested in collecting taxes owed than playing detective. For your immediate apartment need, bank statements showing consistent deposits should work fine. But for taxes, you'll definitely want to file Schedule C and pay self-employment taxes on what you've earned. One thing nobody mentioned - if you've been doing this since April, you might want to make an estimated tax payment for Q4 (due January 15th) to avoid underpayment penalties. The IRS expects you to pay taxes throughout the year, not just at filing time. Also, keep track of ANY work-related expenses - gas, tools, work clothes, phone usage for work calls. As a self-employed person, these become deductions that can significantly reduce what you owe. The whole situation is more common than you think, and the IRS has seen it all before. Just be honest about your income and pay what you owe - that's really all they care about.
This is really helpful, thank you! Quick question about the estimated tax payment - how do I calculate what I should pay for Q4? I've been making $850/week since April, so that's about $29,750 so far. Should I just estimate 25-30% of that? And do I need to do anything special to tell the IRS this is for estimated taxes vs regular tax payment?
Sofia Price
One additional consideration that hasn't been mentioned - make sure you understand the timing implications for your 2025 tax filing. Since this buyout is happening this year, you'll need to report it on your 2025 tax return (filed in 2026). If you're planning to move after the buyout, be aware that the Section 121 exclusion is a once-every-two-years benefit. So if you buy another home and need to sell it quickly for any reason, you won't be able to use the exclusion again until 2027. Also, since you're in Illinois, double-check if there are any state-specific forms or requirements. While Illinois generally follows federal tax treatment for capital gains, it's worth confirming there aren't any additional state reporting requirements for property transfers between unmarried partners. The fact that you've lived there as your primary residence for 3 years puts you in a good position with the federal exclusion, but documenting everything properly now will save you headaches next tax season.
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Freya Thomsen
ā¢This is really good timing information! I didn't realize the Section 121 exclusion had a two-year waiting period between uses. That's definitely something to keep in mind for future planning. Quick follow-up question - if someone doesn't meet the full 2-year ownership requirement but qualifies for a partial exclusion due to unforeseen circumstances (like a breakup), does that partial use still trigger the two-year waiting period? Or can they potentially use the full exclusion sooner if they meet all requirements on a future sale? Also, regarding Illinois state requirements - I found that Illinois doesn't have a separate capital gains tax, so whatever exclusion applies federally should work for state taxes too. But definitely worth double-checking with a local tax professional since property transfer rules can vary by county.
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MidnightRider
ā¢@Freya Thomsen Great question about the partial exclusion and waiting period! Yes, even using a partial Section 121 exclusion still triggers the full two-year waiting period before you can use it again. The IRS doesn t'prorate the waiting period based on how much of the exclusion you used - it s'an all-or-nothing rule. So if you use any portion of the exclusion in 2025 even (just a partial one due to unforeseen circumstances ,)you wouldn t'be eligible to use it again until 2027, regardless of whether you meet all the requirements on a future sale. This makes it even more important to carefully consider the timing if you re'planning any major life changes. If you think you might need to sell another property in the next couple years, you might want to weigh whether it s'worth using the exclusion now or paying the capital gains tax and preserving the exclusion for a potentially larger gain later. You re'absolutely right about Illinois following federal treatment - no separate state capital gains tax makes this much simpler than in states like California or New York where you d'have additional state-level considerations.
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Sean O'Connor
I just want to emphasize how important it is to get proper documentation for everything, especially since you mentioned this is a breakup situation. Even if things are amicable now, having everything legally documented protects both of you. A few things I learned from my own similar situation last year: 1. Get a formal property appraisal - don't just rely on online estimates or comparable sales. The $500 cost is worth it to establish an indisputable fair market value. 2. Have a real estate attorney draft a buyout agreement that clearly states the property value, your equity calculation, payment terms, and timeline for deed/mortgage changes. This isn't just for legal protection - the IRS may want to see this documentation if they ever question your capital gains calculation. 3. Keep every receipt and document related to your ownership: original purchase documents, mortgage statements showing principal payments, receipts for any improvements (even small ones), and records of shared expenses. 4. Consider the timing carefully. Since you qualify for the Section 121 exclusion, you're in good shape tax-wise. But remember you can only use this exclusion once every two years, so if you're planning to buy another place soon, factor that into your decision-making. The fact that you've lived there for 3 years puts you in an excellent position with the federal exclusion, and since Illinois follows federal treatment, you shouldn't have additional state complications. Just make sure everything is properly documented now to avoid headaches during tax season.
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Oliver Wagner
ā¢This is excellent comprehensive advice! I'm in a very similar situation right now - my partner and I are splitting up after 2.5 years of homeownership, and I was feeling pretty overwhelmed by all the moving pieces. The point about getting a formal appraisal really resonates with me. We were initially going to just use Zillow estimates to avoid the cost, but you're absolutely right that having an official, defensible valuation is worth the $500. Especially in a breakup situation where emotions can run high, having that neutral third-party assessment removes any potential for disagreement down the road. I hadn't thought about the timing implications with the Section 121 exclusion either. Since I'm planning to potentially relocate and buy again within the next year or two, I need to factor in that two-year waiting period. It's good to know this now rather than be surprised by it later. One question - when you mention keeping receipts for improvements, how detailed did you get? Like, are we talking about every single Home Depot receipt, or just major projects? I'm trying to figure out what level of documentation is actually necessary versus overkill. Thanks for sharing your experience - it's really helpful to hear from someone who's been through this process successfully.
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Zoe Papadakis
ā¢@Oliver Wagner Great question about the documentation level! From my experience, you want to keep receipts for anything that could reasonably be considered a capital improvement, but you don t'need to go overboard. Focus on major items that clearly add value or extend the property s'useful life: new flooring, appliances, HVAC work, roof repairs, bathroom/kitchen renovations, new windows, etc. I kept receipts for anything over about $200 that wasn t'routine maintenance. For smaller items, I created a simple spreadsheet tracking the date, expense, and brief description. Things like new light fixtures, ceiling fans, or upgraded hardware can add up, but individual $20 purchases probably aren t'worth the hassle unless they re'part of a larger project. The key is being able to demonstrate that you made reasonable efforts to track improvements. The IRS isn t'expecting you to have every single receipt from 3 years of ownership, but having organized records for the significant stuff shows you re'being diligent. One tip: if you did any DIY projects, keep receipts for materials but also document your work with before/after photos. While you can t'claim your labor costs, having visual evidence of improvements can be helpful if questions arise. Good luck with your situation! The fact that you re'thinking about this proactively puts you in a much better position than many people in similar circumstances.
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