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Did you try filing a paper extension instead? Form 4868 can be mailed in even after electronic filing problems. As long as you estimate your taxes correctly and include payment, you'll be fine. The IRS considers your extension filed as of the postmark date. Make copies of everything though! And send it certified mail so you have proof of when it was sent.
Thank you for this suggestion! I hadn't even thought about paper filing as an option. Do you know if there's any additional form I need to fill out since the electronic extension was rejected? And how long does it typically take for the IRS to process a paper extension?
You don't need any additional forms - just the standard Form 4868 for extension. Write a brief note in the margin referencing the electronic rejection if you want, but it's not required. Paper processing is taking about 3-4 weeks right now according to what I've heard, but the postmark date is what matters for filing on time, not when they process it. Just be sure to estimate your taxes properly and include payment if you owe. The extension gives you more time to file, but any taxes owed were still due on April 15th. Keep a copy of everything and the certified mail receipt in your records.
Has anyone else noticed that TurboTax is glitchy af this year? My brother had the same error code happen and it turned out it was a TurboTax problem not an IRS problem!
YES! TurboTax kept rejecting my roommate's return for "duplicate filing" but when he called, they admitted it was a glitch in their system, not the IRS. They had to escalate it to their tech team and it took 3 days to fix. Might be worth calling TurboTax support directly to see if it's a known issue.
Just wanted to add a tip for anyone planning to buy I-bonds with their tax refund next year. There are actually TWO ways to do this: 1. Direct deposit to Treasury Direct (which requires the specific account formatting others mentioned) 2. Request paper I-bonds directly on your tax return using Form 8888 The second option is sometimes more reliable since you don't have to worry about account number formatting. The downside is you get actual paper bonds that you'd need to convert to electronic later if you want. Another thing to be aware of is that there's a $5,000 annual limit for I-bonds purchased with tax refunds, which is separate from the $10,000 annual limit for electronic I-bonds purchased directly through Treasury Direct. So you could potentially get $15,000 in I-bonds per year by using both methods!
Do paper I-bonds still exist? I thought Treasury phased those out years ago. And if I get paper bonds through my tax refund, how would I convert them to electronic later?
Paper I-bonds do still exist, but ONLY through the tax refund process. It's the only way to get them since Treasury Direct otherwise went fully electronic. To convert paper bonds to electronic, you'd use the Treasury Direct "SmartExchange" feature after creating an account. You fill out a form with your paper bond information, mail the bonds to Treasury, and they add them to your electronic account. It takes a few weeks for processing, but then you can manage them online like any other Treasury Direct holdings. Some people actually prefer this method since the paper bonds can be held for safekeeping and don't require online account access until you're ready to redeem them.
Sorry to hear about your issue! One little hack that saved me when I had a similar problem: if you can't get through to the IRS by phone, try contacting your local Taxpayer Advocate Service office. They're an independent organization within the IRS designed to help taxpayers with problems. I had a refund issue last year (not I-bonds but similar redirect problem) and the advocate was able to look up exactly what happened and explain it. They can often resolve issues faster than waiting for general IRS customer service. Google "Taxpayer Advocate Service" + your location to find the nearest office. They typically require that you've already tried normal channels first (which you have), so make sure to mention your failed attempts to contact the IRS directly.
Just wanted to share our experience with this exact situation. We have a cleaning business with several employees who didn't have documentation. Here's what worked: 1) We helped each person file a tax return reporting their actual income from past work (estimated as accurately as possible) as self-employment income 2) We included the W-7 ITIN application with certified copies of their ID documents 3) While waiting for ITINs, we set up proper payroll accounting with placeholders 4) Once ITINs arrived, we updated our payroll system The biggest mistake people make is rushing and using fake numbers. Taking the 7-8 weeks to do it right is SO much better than the alternative. Our accountant nearly had a heart attack when he saw how we'd been handling things before!
Did you have any issues with the I-9 process though? An ITIN doesn't provide work authorization, so I'm curious how you handled the employment eligibility verification requirement.
That's a completely separate issue from tax compliance, and you're right to bring it up. Getting an ITIN only addresses the tax identification requirement, not work authorization. For employment eligibility, each business has to determine their own approach based on their understanding of applicable laws. Some of our workers were able to adjust their status through various programs and eventually obtained work authorization. Others transitioned to providing services through their own small businesses where they had multiple clients (not just us).
Has anyone tried applying for ITINs using the Acceptance Agent program instead of sending documents directly to the IRS? I've heard it can be faster since they can verify original documents locally instead of sending them in.
Yes! We used a Certified Acceptance Agent for our farm workers' ITIN applications and it was much smoother. The agent verified their original identification documents on the spot, so they didn't have to mail in passports or birth certificates. The processing time was about 5 weeks instead of the usual 7-9 weeks when submitting directly to the IRS. The agent also helped make sure the tax returns filed with the applications were properly prepared, which prevented delays from errors. It cost a bit more but was totally worth it for the faster processing and reduced headaches.
Don't forget about QBI (Qualified Business Income) deduction with your 1099 income! This can be up to 20% of your net business income that you get to deduct right off the top. That alone could make the 1099 option significantly better financially. Also, if you go 1099, strongly consider a Solo 401k instead of a SEP IRA. The contribution limits are the same on the employer side, but Solo 401k also allows employee contributions up to $23,000 (2025) plus catch-up if you're over 50. Way more tax-advantaged savings potential.
Can you still do a Solo 401k if you have another W2 job with a 401k already? I thought there were limits to how much you could contribute across all your accounts.
You can absolutely have both a Solo 401k and an employer 401k, but you're right that there are some limitations. The $23,000 employee contribution limit (for 2025) applies across ALL your 401k accounts combined. So if you've already maxed out your employer 401k, you can't make additional employee contributions to your Solo 401k. However, the employer contribution portion of your Solo 401k is completely separate and not affected by your W2 job's 401k. You can still contribute up to 25% of your net self-employment income as the "employer" portion to your Solo 401k, even if you've maxed out your other 401k.
Don't make the same mistake I did! I chose the W2 option last year thinking it was "safer" and ended up leaving a ton of money on the table. The lack of deductions as a W2 employee meant my effective tax rate was much higher than it would have been as a 1099. If you're disciplined with tracking expenses and setting aside money for taxes, the 1099 route is usually better financially. Just make sure you're putting away at least 25-30% of each payment for taxes. I use Quickbooks Self-Employed to automatically track expenses and calculate quarterly estimated taxes.
Paolo Conti
Just a quick tip - make sure you're looking at Form 8880 (Credit for Qualified Retirement Savings Contributions) when you file. This is where you'll calculate your Savers Credit. I missed this form my first time around and lost out on about $400 in tax credits!
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Sofia Ramirez
ā¢Thanks for the tip! Will I need any specific documentation from Fidelity if I make this IRA contribution now for last year? And should I reduce the contribution amount since we'll only get 10% back?
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Paolo Conti
ā¢You don't need any special documentation from Fidelity for your tax return. When you make the contribution, just make sure you specify it's for the 2023 tax year. Fidelity will eventually send a Form 5498, but that usually comes after the tax filing deadline and isn't needed to claim the credit. As for reducing the contribution amount, I'd still recommend contributing the full amount to reach $2,000 total. Even though you're only getting 10% back as a direct credit ($200), remember that traditional IRA contributions also reduce your taxable income. So you're getting both the $200 credit AND the tax deduction on your contribution, which at your income level could save you another 22% or so in taxes on that money.
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Amina Sow
Has anyone else had to amend their return to claim this credit after realizing they missed it? I'm in that boat right now and wondering if it's worth the hassle for the 10% credit.
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GalaxyGazer
ā¢I amended last year for exactly this reason! It was a bit of paperwork but totally worth it in my case. Got back about $280 between the credit and the deduction on a $1,400 contribution. Just filed Form 1040-X with the corrected info and Form 8880 for the credit.
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Amina Sow
ā¢Thanks for sharing your experience! $280 back on $1,400 is pretty good. I think I'm gonna go ahead with the amendment. I hate leaving money on the table, even if it's just a couple hundred bucks.
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