


Ask the community...
Has anyone itemized student loan interest? I paid like $4500 in interest last year and im hoping to get something back for that nightmare.
Student loan interest (up to $2,500) is actually an "above-the-line" deduction, not an itemized deduction. That means you can take it even if you claim the standard deduction! It's directly subtracted from your income before calculating your adjusted gross income.
Don't forget energy efficiency improvements to your home! We got solar panels last year and qualified for a 30% tax credit (not a deduction but even better). Also replaced windows and got another credit. Check out Form 5695 for residential energy credits.
Thanks for mentioning this! We actually did install some energy efficient windows as part of moving in. Do you know if that counts if they were installed by the previous owner right before we bought the place? Or does it only count if we paid for the installation ourselves?
Unfortunately, you only get the credit if you paid for the improvements yourself. If the previous owners installed them, they would get the credit on their tax return. However, now that you own the home, any new energy-efficient improvements you make going forward would qualify for you! The credits are pretty substantial - up to 30% for solar and geothermal, and up to $600 for energy-efficient windows (with a $1,200 annual maximum for most improvements). Might be worth considering additional upgrades this year!
One thing nobody mentioned yet - make sure you check if New Zealand and the US have a tax treaty! Different countries have different agreements with the US that might affect how you report income or claim credits. I believe the US and NZ do have a tax treaty that addresses things like seasonal workers. This might help you avoid double taxation, but you need to know the specific provisions that apply to your situation.
That's really helpful, thanks! Do you know where I can find information about this tax treaty? Is there a specific IRS form or website that explains how it would apply to my situation?
You can find the full text of all US tax treaties on the IRS website - search for "United States Income Tax Treaties A to Z" and look for New Zealand. But I'll warn you, these documents are written in dense legal language and can be hard to understand. A more user-friendly approach is to look at IRS Publication 901 (U.S. Tax Treaties). It breaks down the key provisions by country in more understandable language. For your specific situation as a seasonal worker, pay attention to the sections on "dependent personal services" or "income from employment" in the treaty. These sections typically address short-term work situations like yours.
Make sure you also find out if you need to file a Foreign Bank Account Report (FBAR) if you opened a bank account in New Zealand! If you had more than $10,000 in foreign accounts at any time during the year, you need to file this form.
This isn't totally accurate. The $10,000 threshold is for the COMBINED total of ALL your foreign accounts at ANY point during the year. So if you had $5k in a NZ account and $6k in another foreign account, you'd still need to file FBAR. Better safe than sorry with these things!
One thing nobody mentioned yet - I always run my info through two different tax software programs and compare the results! I use FreeTaxUSA and then also input everything into TaxAct (or sometimes TurboTax if I can find a free version). If both software packages come up with the same refund/amount owed, I'm much more confident everything is correct. When they don't match, it helps me track down where the discrepancy is happening, which usually reveals an error in how I entered something. It takes extra time but gives me peace of mind, especially since different software sometimes asks questions in different ways that make me realize I misunderstood something.
That's a really smart idea! Does FreeTaxUSA let you go through the whole process without paying? I know they charge for state filing, but do they let you see your final federal numbers before submitting payment? And have you ever found significant differences between the two calculations?
FreeTaxUSA lets you go through the entire process and see your completed federal return for free - you only pay when you actually file. So you can definitely see your final numbers before deciding to submit. And yes, I've caught some pretty significant differences! Last year, there was a $1,200 difference between FreeTaxUSA and TurboTax on my refund. Turned out I had accidentally entered a 1099-MISC as a 1099-NEC in one of the programs which changed how the income was classified. Another time, I discovered I had incorrectly answered a question about qualified business income in one software but not the other. The cross-checking has definitely saved me from some big mistakes.
For us regular people with normal jobs and no fancy investments or rental properties, FreeTaxUSA is pretty foolproof. I've used it for 5 years now without any issues. My main tip is to compare this year's return to last year's. If there are big differences in adjusted gross income, total tax, or refund amount that don't match up with life changes you've had (new job, bought house, had baby, etc), that's a red flag to investigate. Most years your tax situation doesn't change dramatically unless something major happened in your life.
This is great advice! I also recommend checking if your state tax refund/amount owed seems reasonable compared to your federal. They shouldn't be wildly different proportionately unless you live in a state with unusual tax situations. If federal shows a big refund but state shows you owing a ton, that could indicate something's wrong.
Another option that nobody has mentioned yet is to check if your brokerage offers basis reconstruction services. Fidelity helped me with a similar inheritance issue by researching historical prices based on the date of death. You'll need to provide documentation like the death certificate and proof of the trust distribution, but they can often do the calculation for you. There might be a fee, but in my case it was worth it for the peace of mind.
What if my brokerage is a smaller one that doesn't offer those kinds of services? I'm with a regional firm that's not as full-service as Fidelity or Schwab.
If you're with a smaller brokerage, you still have options. Even if they don't offer formal basis reconstruction services, their customer service might still be able to help you identify the share price on the date of death. If that doesn't work, you can also use resources like Yahoo Finance or Morningstar to look up historical prices for most mutual funds. Just search for SSHFX and find the historical price data for your uncle's date of death. Document how you determined the value (take screenshots), and keep that with your tax records.
Have you considered using the alternative valuation date? IRS rules allow the executor to choose either the date of death OR 6 months after for valuation purposes. Might be worth checking which value was lower if youre trying to minimize capital gains taxes when you sell.
Emily Parker
Just wanted to mention that the "notice on the 18th" could be referring to your account transcript cycle date. Many IRS transcripts update on a weekly cycle, and if yours updates on the 18th, that's when you might see movement. You can check this by looking at the cycle code on your account transcript - the last two digits indicate which day of the week your account updates (05 = Thursday night/Friday morning is common).
0 coins
Natalie Wang
β’That makes so much sense! I just checked and you're right - my cycle code ends in 05. So that means my transcript updates Thursday nights? Does that mean if nothing changes this week, I should check again next Thursday?
0 coins
Emily Parker
β’Yes, exactly! If your cycle code ends in 05, your account typically updates overnight between Thursday and Friday. So check first thing Friday morning for any changes. If nothing changes this week, definitely check again next Friday morning. Many people don't realize the IRS works in these weekly batches for most processing. So your return might be completely processed already, but the transcript won't show the updates until your designated cycle date.
0 coins
Ezra Collins
I was stuck in the same situation back in 2023 and discovered that checking transcripts obsessively actually made the wait feel longer lol. My suggestion is to set up direct deposit if you haven't already, and just assume it's gonna take 6-8 weeks total. The IRS is super backed up still. The funny thing is sometimes your refund will hit your bank account before the WMR tool or transcript even updates!
0 coins
Victoria Scott
β’This is so true! I got my refund in my bank account 2 days BEFORE the Where's My Refund tool updated last year. The whole system is a mess.
0 coins