IRS

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If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


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Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

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Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Raj Gupta

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I use a really simple system that works great for me. I have one credit card I ONLY use for tax-deductible purchases (business expenses, medical, charitable donations, etc). Then I have a Google Drive folder with subfolders for each deduction category. Whenever I get an email receipt, I forward it to the appropriate folder. For paper stuff, I take a quick pic with my phone and upload it there too. I also keep a simple spreadsheet with dates, amounts, and categories that I update about once a week. Takes like 5 minutes but saves hours of headaches at tax time. The key is making it super easy to maintain!

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I like the dedicated credit card idea! Question though - how do you handle cash expenses? That's where I always mess up since there's no digital trail.

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Raj Gupta

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For cash expenses, I immediately take a photo of the receipt with my phone and add it to my digital system. I try to make this a habit right after making the purchase. If it's a business expense, I'll quickly note what it was for in my photo album so I don't forget the purpose later. I also keep a small zippered pouch in my car specifically for collecting any cash receipts I might get while out. Then once a week when I'm updating my spreadsheet, I go through that pouch, photograph anything I missed, and then file or discard the physical receipts. The key is having consistent touchpoints with your system rather than letting things pile up.

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TechNinja

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I just use TurboTax all year round honestly. They have a feature where you can upload and store documents throughout the year. Is anyone else using tax software as their actual organization system too? Works great for me because everything's already in the system when I file.

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I tried that approach with H&R Block last year and found it limiting. Does TurboTax let you categorize receipts in detail? Like can you tag business expenses by project or client? My main issue is sorting through hundreds of business purchases at year end.

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For what it's worth, I'm a rideshare driver and I accidentally left the commuting miles section blank last year. Nothing happened - no audit, no questions, nothing. The IRS is way too busy to audit people over something this minor, especially when the business miles make sense for your profession. Just make sure you have some kind of records backing up your business mileage in case they ever do ask questions. Even a basic log showing dates, destinations and odometer readings would be sufficient.

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That's reassuring to hear! Did you keep detailed mileage logs or just estimates? I have a general record of client visits but didn't track the exact odometer readings for every trip.

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I keep a simple spreadsheet with the date, starting odometer, ending odometer, and purpose of trip. Nothing fancy. I also save my gas receipts and maintenance records as backup evidence of how much I'm actually driving. Even if your records aren't perfect, having something is better than nothing. The IRS knows most people aren't keeping NASA-level precise records. If you can show you made a good faith effort to track your business miles and that the total claimed is reasonable for your line of work, you should be fine.

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Just to add another perspective - the total mileage you reported actually matters more than leaving one category blank. If your business miles seem reasonable compared to your profession and income reported, you're likely fine. What tends to trigger flags is when someone claims an unusually high percentage of their total driving as business miles, like saying 95% of all driving was business-related. Your numbers (25996 business, 2999 personal) show about 90% business use, which is high but could be completely legitimate depending on your work.

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Ellie Perry

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This makes a lot of sense. I've always heard that claiming more than 80% business use is a red flag, but I guess it really depends on what you do for work. A traveling salesperson or consultant might legitimately use their car almost exclusively for business.

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Sydney Torres

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One thing nobody's mentioned yet - make sure your grandparents' bank account info is entered correctly in the payment plan. I had a situation where I transposed two digits in my account number, and it caused a "payment not honored" scenario which triggered penalties and a payment plan default. Double-check all those details before finalizing the filing! Also, remember that there's usually a setup fee for payment plans unless you're setting up a direct debit agreement. The fee is lower if you set everything up online vs. by phone or mail. I think it's around $31 for online setup with direct debit last time I checked.

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Lucas Parker

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Thanks for the heads up! I did double-check the bank details, but I'll verify them one more time. And yes, there was a fee that was added to the total balance. I opted for the direct debit option to keep things simple for my grandparents - they won't have to remember to make the payment each month.

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Sydney Torres

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Sounds like you've got it covered then! The direct debit option is definitely the way to go - not only is the setup fee lower, but it also ensures they won't accidentally miss a payment. One last tip: if your grandparents ever need to change the bank account information for the direct debits, do it at least 7-10 business days before the next scheduled payment to make sure it processes correctly.

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Just an FYI - when you file through FreeTaxUSA or any other tax software, on the payment screen you can just select "I'll mail a check" or similar option. Then just don't mail a check. Your installment plan will take over and handle the payments. I do this every year since I'm always on a payment plan. The key is making sure that you've entered the EXACT same information on both systems. Same name spelling, same address format, etc. That helps the IRS computer systems match everything up correctly.

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Caleb Bell

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This is actually bad advice. You should select a payment option that indicates you're not paying with the return, but don't select "mail a check" if you're not going to mail one. There are specific options for "I'll pay directly to the IRS" or similar that are more appropriate and won't potentially flag your account for a missed check payment.

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Nia Williams

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Military member here who's owned multiple rental properties. Quick tip: Track EVERYTHING expense-wise related to the rental side, including: - Mortgage interest (proportional) - Property taxes (proportional) - Insurance - Maintenance/repairs - Utilities if you pay any for tenant - Travel expenses to check on property - Advertising costs - Property management fees if applicable Most importantly, don't forget depreciation on the rental portion - it's a huge deduction many miss. And remember you'll need to provide your tenant with a 1099 if you paid any service providers more than $600 in a year for work on the rental. Also, consider tracking car mileage when you do anything related to the rental - trips to hardware store for repair supplies, etc.

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Omar Farouk

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Thanks for all these details! I've been trying to keep track of everything but wasn't sure about the mileage. How do you handle splitting things like the mortgage interest between the rental side and my side? Is it just 50/50 since it's equal units, or is there more to it?

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Nia Williams

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Generally for a duplex with equal units, a 50/50 split is acceptable and what most people do. However, if one unit is significantly larger than the other (like one is 60% of the total square footage), you should use that ratio instead. For tracking mileage, I use a simple app that lets me log trips specifically for rental property purposes. You'll want to record the date, starting/ending mileage, and purpose of each trip. At tax time, you can claim the standard mileage rate (which changes yearly) for all those miles. It adds up fast and is often overlooked!

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Luca Ricci

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I'd recommend keeping your personal and rental expenses COMPLETELY separate if possible. Different credit cards, different bank accounts, etc. Made the mistake of mixing them my first year and spent like 20+ hours at tax time trying to figure out what was what. Also, don't forget you can deduct any fees you pay for tax preparation related to your rental income! I paid $350 last year for a CPA to handle my taxes with rental property and was able to deduct that on this year's return.

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And if you use tax software instead of a CPA, you can still deduct the cost of the software proportionally for the rental property part! I just allocate based on how many forms are for personal vs rental.

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Does anyone know if there are income limits for claiming the daycare expenses? My wife and I make about $160k combined and we have two kids in daycare. We're getting almost nothing back this year compared to last year and I'm wondering if we just make too much now.

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MidnightRider

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Yes, there are income limits that affect both the Child Tax Credit and the Child and Dependent Care Credit. For the Child and Dependent Care Credit, the percentage of expenses you can claim starts decreasing when your adjusted gross income (AGI) exceeds $15,000, and continues to decrease as your income rises. At $160,000 combined income, you're getting a much lower percentage of your expenses covered by the credit than someone with lower income. Additionally, the Child Tax Credit begins to phase out for married couples filing jointly when your modified AGI reaches $400,000, but the dependent care credit is much more affected by income levels in the range you mentioned.

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Has anyone tried claiming their daycare expenses through a Dependent Care FSA instead of just taking the tax credit? My HR department mentioned this might be better but I don't understand the difference.

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Dylan Evans

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I've done both. The Dependent Care FSA lets you set aside up to $5,000 pre-tax for childcare expenses if you're married filing jointly. That's better than the tax credit for most people in higher tax brackets because it reduces your taxable income directly. You can actually use both the FSA and the tax credit, but not for the same expenses. So if you have $10,000 in childcare expenses, you could use $5,000 for the FSA and then claim the remaining $5,000 for the tax credit (subject to the limits).

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