


Ask the community...
One piece of advice I don't see mentioned yet - keep VERY detailed records of your disallowed passive losses from year to year. I learned this the hard way when I was audited three years after reporting a large passive loss on a rental. The IRS wanted documentation of EVERY passive loss I'd ever reported and carried forward. Creating a separate spreadsheet that tracks each year's loss, how much was used (if any), and the running total carried forward is essential. Also keep copies of all Form 8582s from previous years.
How detailed do these records need to be? Like do I need to track each expense category separately for the carryover or just the total loss amount each year? I've been just writing the total on a notepad file on my computer...
You should definitely track more than just the total. At minimum, track each property separately if you have multiple rentals, the total loss for each property each year, how much was allowed to be deducted (if any), and the running balance of disallowed losses. I also recommend keeping a copy of the complete Schedule E and Form 8582 for each year, not just the totals. During my audit, the IRS wanted to see the connection between what was reported on Schedule E and what flowed to Form 8582, including all allocation calculations. I had some losses that were partially allowed due to passive income from other sources, and they scrutinized how I calculated those allocations.
Quick question related to this - does anyone know if short-term rentals (like Airbnb) are treated the same way for passive activity loss rules? I have a vacation home that I rent out part-time and also had a loss last year.
Short-term rentals can actually be treated differently in some cases! If your average rental period is 7 days or less, the IRS may consider it a "business" rather than a rental activity. This means it might be reported on Schedule C instead and subject to different passive activity rules. The material participation standards would apply instead of the rental real estate rules.
One thing nobody's mentioned yet is that you might want to stop claiming the home office deduction for a period before selling. If you convert the office back to personal use for at least 2 years before selling, you might be able to avoid this issue altogether. I did this and was able to get the full exclusion on my entire house.
That's interesting! So if I stop using the room as an office and just use it as a normal bedroom or something for 2 years before selling, would that fix the problem completely? What about the depreciation I've already taken in previous years?
Converting back to personal use can help with future capital gains treatment, but unfortunately any depreciation you've already taken will still need to be recaptured when you sell. That's unavoidable. The good news is that only applies to the actual depreciation you claimed, and only for the period you claimed it. So stopping the home office deduction now won't erase past depreciation, but it prevents you from creating more tax liability going forward.
I just went through this when selling my house last month! What saved me was keeping meticulous records of all home improvements I made over the years. Those all add to your cost basis and reduce the taxable gain, which is especially important for the home office portion. Make sure you have receipts for everything - new roof, kitchen remodel, bathroom updates, even smaller upgrades like ceiling fans or a water heater.
Does this really make a big difference? And what about regular maintenance stuff like painting or fixing things that break? Can those count too?
I'm in a similar situation with Robinhood but am wondering if I can just go ahead and file my taxes without the 1099-DIV if the dividend amount is small? I only got about $11.50 in dividends for the year. Would the IRS even notice if I just skipped reporting it? Not trying to do anything illegal but wondering if there's a minimum threshold where they don't really care.
That makes sense. I guess I'll just wait for the form rather than risk an issue. Do you know if a small discrepancy like this would actually trigger an audit though? I've always been paranoid about that.
A small discrepancy by itself is unlikely to trigger a full audit. What typically happens is the IRS's automated system might flag the return and send you a CP2000 notice (a proposed tax adjustment) if they notice the mismatch. Even though the amount is small, you'd potentially end up paying the tax owed plus interest and maybe a penalty. The hassle of dealing with IRS notices usually isn't worth saving a few dollars in taxes. Better to just report everything accurately from the start and save yourself the stress.
I've noticed Robinhood is always super late with their tax forms compared to other brokerages. My Fidelity and Vanguard 1099s came weeks ago but still waiting on Robinhood. Anyone else use multiple platforms and notice this pattern? It's annoying because they hold up my entire tax filing process every year.
Same here! I've already got my forms from Schwab and E*Trade but nothing from Robinhood yet. They seem to always wait until the last possible minute. Last year mine came on February 16th, literally two days before the deadline.
17 Just want to add that whatever you do, make sure you file your return by the deadline even if you can't pay right away! The penalty for not filing (5% per month) is TEN TIMES higher than the penalty for not paying (0.5% per month). Also, depending on how much you owe, you might have different options. If it's under $50,000, the online payment agreement is super easy. If it's less than $100,000, you can still do it online but with different terms. Over $100k and you'll probably need to fill out Form 9465 and maybe Form 433-F.
4 Does setting up a payment plan affect your credit score? I'm worried about that since I'm planning to apply for a mortgage later this year...
17 Setting up a payment plan itself doesn't directly impact your credit score - the IRS doesn't report installment agreements to credit bureaus. However, if you owe more than $10,000, the IRS may file a tax lien, which can affect your credit. The good news is that if you owe less than $50,000 and set up a direct debit installment plan, the IRS generally won't file a tax lien. So if you're applying for a mortgage later, getting on a payment plan quickly is actually better than leaving the tax debt unaddressed.
5 Just a quick tip from someone who's been there - if you're using TurboTax, H&R Block, or TaxAct, they actually do have options to help with IRS payment plans. Look for something called "Easy Pay" or "Pay with IRS" options in the payment section. Some of them will even e-file your extension for free if you need more time!
9 Which software specifically has these options? I'm using TaxSlayer and can't seem to find anything like that in their payment section.
Ahooker-Equator
One thing nobody's mentioned yet is that transferable tax credits often sell at different discounts depending on the source of the credit. In my state (Louisiana), film credits typically sell at a deeper discount (85-90 cents on the dollar) compared to historic preservation credits (92-95 cents). Also, some brokers have much higher fees than the $300 you mentioned. I was quoted fees ranging from 1-3% by different brokers for the same credit purchase. Your CPA's fee seems reasonable. The time value aspect is critical too. If you're paying $93.5K now to save $25K per year for 4 years, that's very different from saving the full $100K immediately. Your analysis about the annualized return is spot-on.
0 coins
Anderson Prospero
ā¢Do you know if there's a secondary market for these credits if someone needs to cash out early? Like if I buy them but then need the money back before using all the credits - can I resell them?
0 coins
Ahooker-Equator
ā¢Yes, there is typically a secondary market for unused transferable tax credits, though it varies significantly by state. In Louisiana, for example, you can resell unused film credits, but you'll likely take another haircut on the price - meaning you'd sell at an even deeper discount than what you paid. The marketability also depends on the credit type and remaining utilization period. Credits with longer remaining lifespans and from more established programs (like historic preservation) tend to be more liquid than newer or more niche credit programs. Some states also have restrictions on how many times a credit can be transferred, so you'd need to check your specific state's rules.
0 coins
Tyrone Hill
Lots of smart advice here. I'll add that I've purchased transferable credits twice and had different experiences. First time was solar credits in NJ at 88 cents/dollar, which worked well because I had a big tax bill that year and could use them immediately. Second time was for film credits in GA at 90 cents/dollar, but my income dropped unexpectedly that year and I couldn't use them fully. Ended up carrying them forward but that reduced my effective return. One question: did your CPA mention verification of the credits? Some states provide verification services to confirm the credits are legitimate before purchase. DEFINITELY do this if you ever reconsider!
0 coins
Toot-n-Mighty
ā¢What documentation did you receive when you purchased the credits? I'm considering buying some but don't know what paperwork to expect or what should raise red flags.
0 coins
Tyrone Hill
ā¢For my purchases, I received several key documents that you should absolutely expect if you go forward with buying credits. For the NJ solar credits, I got the original credit certificate from the state showing the amount and validity period, a notarized transfer document signed by the original credit recipient, and confirmation from the state tax authority that the transfer was recorded in their system. For the GA film credits, the documentation was similar but also included the production company's certification letter from the film commission. When purchasing any credits, you should always get written verification from the state that the credits exist and haven't been previously transferred or used. Some states have online systems where you can verify this information directly. The biggest red flags would be reluctance to provide proper documentation, pressure to complete the transaction quickly without verification, or inability to explain the origin and certification of the credits.
0 coins