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Something nobody's mentioned yet - make sure you're clear on who's responsible for reporting what if you do charge interest on the loan. If your brother charges you even a small amount of interest, he technically needs to report that as income on his tax return. It's not a big deal with small amounts, but worth knowing. My sister loaned me $15k last year and charged me 1% interest just to make it official. She had to report the $150 interest on her taxes. Not a huge deal, but something to be aware of.

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Does the brother actually need to issue a 1099-INT in this case? Or just report it as miscellaneous income?

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For small loans between family members, a formal 1099-INT isn't typically required. Your brother would simply report the interest received as "interest income" on his Schedule B if he itemizes his interest income, or directly on line 2b of Form 1040 if it's a smaller amount. The IRS doesn't generally expect family members to go through the formal 1099-INT process for personal loans, but the income still needs to be reported. The most important thing is having documentation of your loan agreement in case either of you gets audited down the road.

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I went through this exact situation with my parents helping me buy a car last year. Here's what worked for us - we created a super simple one-page loan document that included: - The exact amount borrowed ($22,500) - A minimal interest rate (we used 2%) - A payment schedule (monthly for 2 years) - Both our signatures Nothing fancy, no notary or anything. This made it crystal clear it was a loan, not a gift. I've been paying them back monthly, and neither of us had any tax issues. The interest they've received is so small they just included it with their other interest income. The IRS isn't out to get you on family helping family situations as long as you have some basic documentation showing it's actually a loan you intend to repay.

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Did you use any specific template for that loan document? I need to create something similar with my mom but don't want to pay a lawyer for something simple.

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I just used a free template I found online after searching "simple family loan agreement template." The key elements were making sure it had the loan amount, interest rate (even if small), payment schedule, and both our signatures. I didn't use anything fancy or pay for legal services. Most important parts were being specific about repayment terms and having both signatures. We also each kept a copy. It doesn't need to be complicated - the IRS just wants to see there's a genuine expectation of repayment, which distinguishes a loan from a gift.

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Based on my experience as a dual US-Canadian citizen running a business, consider establishing a Canadian corporation if you're planning to stay in Canada long-term. Here's why: - Canadian corporate tax rates can be very favorable for small businesses (as low as 9% federal + provincial on the first $500K of active business income) - You can defer personal taxation by keeping money in the corporation - You still need to file US taxes as a citizen, but can use foreign tax credits - Your wife, as a non-US person, can receive dividends from the Canadian corporation that may not be subject to US taxation The downside is compliance costs - you'll need to file US FBAR, Form 5471 (for foreign corporations), and possibly deal with GILTI tax. But overall, the tax savings often outweigh these costs.

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Nia Harris

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Do you have to worry about CFC (Controlled Foreign Corporation) rules with the Canadian corporation approach? I heard those can be complicated for US citizens.

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Yes, CFC rules definitely come into play, particularly the GILTI (Global Intangible Low-Taxed Income) provisions from the 2017 tax reform. These rules can cause immediate US taxation on certain types of income earned through your Canadian corporation. However, with proper planning, you can often manage these effectively. For consulting businesses, you may qualify for the high-tax exception if Canadian corporate taxes exceed 18.9% (90% of the US corporate rate). Also, you can make a "962 election" on your US return to apply foreign tax credits against GILTI tax. It's complex but can be navigated with good advice.

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Just a warning from someone who went through this - don't forget about Social Security! As a US citizen in Canada, you'll be covered by the US-Canada totalization agreement. This determines which country's social security system you pay into. Generally, if you're self-employed and residing in Canada, you'd pay into the Canadian system (CPP) and be exempt from US self-employment tax. You need to get a certificate of coverage from the Canadian authorities to claim this exemption. This saved me about $15K in US self-employment taxes my first year abroad that my first accountant missed!

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Aisha Ali

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Is there a specific form you need to file to claim that exemption from self-employment tax? I've been paying both US and Canadian retirement contributions and now I'm wondering if I've been doing it wrong.

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CosmicCowboy

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I moved to Thailand 3 years ago and yes, the US still taxes me on worldwide income. But there are some strategies that help: 1. The Foreign Earned Income Exclusion (FEIE) lets you exclude up to about $120k of EARNED income (like salary), but doesn't help with investments 2. If you live somewhere with income tax (unlike Caymans), foreign tax credits can offset what you pay to US 3. Consider tax-advantaged accounts for investments (Roth IRA, etc.) 4. Some people restructure investments to be more tax-efficient Whatever you do, don't try hiding anything. The US has info sharing agreements with most countries including tax havens.

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I heard some expats are going heavy into crypto to avoid reporting but that seems super risky. Isn't the IRS cracking down on that now?

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CosmicCowboy

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Using crypto to avoid reporting is an absolutely terrible idea. The IRS has massively increased enforcement in this area. Crypto exchanges are now required to report transactions, blockchain analytics are getting more sophisticated, and the penalties for willful non-compliance can include criminal charges. Remember that crypto transactions (including trading one crypto for another) are taxable events. The IRS considers crypto to be property, not currency, so each transaction can trigger capital gains tax. Some people mistakenly think crypto is "invisible" but that's becoming less true every year as reporting requirements expand.

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Javier Cruz

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I moved to Malta last year and my biggest shock was learning about the Passive Foreign Investment Company (PFIC) rules. If you invest in non-US mutual funds or ETFs while abroad, the tax treatment is BRUTAL. Seriously OP, if you're moving to Caymans, keep your investments in US-domiciled funds only. The paperwork and tax rate on foreign funds is insane - like 37% + interest on gains.

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Whoa I had no idea about this! Is this true even for index funds that just follow something like the S&P 500 but are based in another country? This is the kind of stuff that makes me wonder if the hassle is worth it...

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Something nobody has mentioned yet is that if your inventory sits around long enough, you might be able to write down "obsolete inventory" which lets you take a deduction for items that have lost value. Like if you're selling trendy items that go out of style or tech that becomes outdated.

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How do you actually prove inventory is "obsolete" though? Do you need documentation or can you just decide something isn't going to sell anymore?

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You need to have a consistent method for determining when inventory becomes obsolete or has declined in value. This could be based on how long an item has been in stock (like items over 12 months old), items that haven't sold after multiple price reductions, or products that have been replaced by newer models. The key is documenting your process and applying it consistently. You can't just randomly decide something is obsolete when you want a tax deduction. Most businesses create a written inventory policy that explains their method for identifying and writing down obsolete inventory. If you're audited, the IRS will want to see that you followed this policy.

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Chris King

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I think you might be confusing cash flow with taxable income. Just because money comes in and goes right back out to pay debt doesn't mean you aren't making a profit for tax purposes. The tax calculation doesn't care if you use your profit to pay debts.

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Rachel Clark

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This! I learned this lesson the hard way my first year in business. Had a "profitable" year on paper but all the cash went to inventory growth. Still had to pay taxes on the profit even though my bank account was empty.

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Something else to consider - make sure you're using the correct tax forms for 2021 and 2022, not the current year forms. The tax laws change slightly each year, and using the wrong year's forms can cause your return to be rejected. You can download prior year forms directly from the IRS website at https://www.irs.gov/forms-pubs/prior-year Also, even though you're likely getting a refund, be aware that there's a 3-year deadline to claim refunds. For 2021 taxes, you have until April 2025 to file and still get your refund. Just don't wait too long!

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NebulaNova

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That's really helpful about the deadline! I had no idea there was a cutoff for getting refunds. Does the IRS charge penalties for filing late if you're owed a refund?

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Good news - the IRS generally doesn't charge penalties if they owe YOU money. Penalties and interest typically only apply when you owe them. So if you're confident you'll be getting refunds, you should be fine penalty-wise. That said, filing sooner rather than later is always better. Besides the refund deadline I mentioned, having unfiled returns can sometimes cause issues with other government programs or financial applications like mortgages. Some people also find that their refund was larger than expected, which is a nice surprise!

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Jamal Wilson

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Has anyone used FreeTaxUSA for filing prior year returns? I heard they charge like $15 per state but federal is free even for old returns.

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Mei Lin

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I used FreeTaxUSA for a late 2020 return last year and it worked great. Super straightforward and much cheaper than TurboTax or H&R Block for prior years. Federal was free like you said, and I paid $15 for state. They walk you through everything step by step.

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