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You need to use the EITC Assistant on the IRS website. With your income level and three qualifying children, you're looking at a significant Earned Income Credit. You should also claim the Child and Dependent Care Credit if you paid for childcare. Your refund will likely be substantial, but you need to file correctly. The self-employment tax will reduce it somewhat, but the credits should more than offset this. Consider making estimated tax payments next year to avoid any penalties.
Would this income level also qualify for the Additional Child Tax Credit if the regular Child Tax Credit exceeds their tax liability? I'm trying to understand if there's a phase-out that would apply here or if they'd get the full refundable portion.
Based on your income levels, you're definitely in a good position for a substantial refund! With $19,000 total income and 3 qualifying children, here's what I'd expect: **Child Tax Credit**: $6,000 (3 kids ร $2,000 each) **EITC**: Around $6,500+ with 3 kids at your income level **Self-Employment Tax**: ~$706 (as others mentioned) The key factors that will determine your exact refund: - How much was withheld from your W-2 (this is crucial!) - Your filing status (Head of Household vs. Married Filing Jointly makes a huge difference) - Whether you qualify for Additional Child Tax Credit if your credits exceed your tax liability Your income is low enough that you'll likely get most/all of these credits as refunds rather than just reducing tax owed. I'd estimate you're looking at $8,000-$10,000+ refund range, but definitely use the IRS EITC Assistant tool that Sara mentioned - it's the most accurate way to calculate the Earned Income Credit portion. Don't forget to keep receipts for those medical expenses too - they might be deductible if they exceed 7.5% of your AGI!
Is this your first job out of college? Just wondering if maybe you're misreading your paystub. Most paystubs will SHOW both employer and employee portions of FICA/Medicare for informational purposes, but only the employee portion actually comes out of your check. The employer portion is just shown so you can see the total cost of employment.
This is a great point to double-check! @Owen, can you clarify - are you looking at your actual gross earnings on your W-2 or year-end statement, or are you looking at what's displayed on your paystub? Many paystubs will show employer tax contributions in an "informational" section that doesn't actually reduce your take-home pay. The key is to look at your W-2 Box 1 (wages subject to federal income tax) and compare that to your contracted salary amount. If your W-2 shows less than your contracted $125,000 (minus only legitimate pre-tax deductions you elected), then you definitely have a problem. But if the employer taxes are just being displayed on your paystub for transparency without actually being deducted, your gross earnings should still match your contract. Can you check your actual W-2 and let us know what Box 1 shows?
This is exactly the right question to ask! I made a similar mistake when I first started working - I was looking at all the numbers on my paystub and getting confused about what was actually being deducted versus what was just informational. @Owen, definitely check your W-2 Box 1 first. If that matches your $125,000 salary (minus any pre-tax deductions you chose like health insurance or 401k), then the employer tax amounts you're seeing are probably just displayed for informational purposes and aren't actually reducing your pay. But if your W-2 Box 1 is significantly less than expected, then you've got a real issue that needs to be addressed with your employer immediately.
Don't forget about FBAR requirements if you're keeping that money in a foreign account! If you have more than $10,000 in foreign financial accounts at any time during the calendar year, you need to file an FBAR (FinCEN Form 114). The penalties for not filing are insane - up to $10,000 for non-willful violations and the greater of $100,000 or 50% of account balances for willful violations.
I'm not keeping anything in foreign accounts - all the wire transfers are coming directly to my US bank account. Does that mean I don't need to worry about FBAR? Also, does the bank automatically report these transfers to the IRS since they're international?
You're good on the FBAR front since you're not keeping money in foreign accounts. That only applies if you have financial accounts outside the US. Your bank is definitely filing reports on these international wire transfers though. Banks are required to file a Currency Transaction Report (CTR) for transactions over $10,000, but they also file Suspicious Activity Reports (SARs) for patterns of activity like multiple transfers just under reporting thresholds - exactly like what you're describing with regular $6,500-$9,500 transfers. The IRS can easily access these reports, so they'll know about this income whether you report it or not. Always better to report properly than risk an audit and penalties.
Make sure you're keeping good records of everything - the wire transfers, any communications with the buyer, and especially any shipping receipts. If you're shipping to their US warehouse, that's domestic shipping which is generally not deductible against your capital gains. But if you have any other expenses directly related to the sales (like special packaging materials), those might be deductible against your proceeds.
What tax form does this even go on? Is it Schedule C for business or something else since it's personal items?
wait what does cycle 5 even mean? im new to all this tax stuff
Last digit of your cycle code. Cycle 5 means weekly updates, usually Thursday night/Friday morning
Same situation here! Filed 1/25, accepted 1/27, cycle 20250605 with ACTC. My transcript looks almost identical to yours - processing date Feb 24, code 150 with $0.00, and those future April dates. The waiting game is brutal but at least we know PATH should lift soon. That long number you mentioned (70211-424-09595-5) is just an internal IRS reference number, totally normal. Hang in there, we're all in this together! ๐ค
Teresa Boyd
This might be a stupid question but... if I'm filing an extension, do I still need to contribute to my IRA by April 15th to count it for last year? Or does the extension give me until October for that too?
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Lourdes Fox
โขNot a stupid question at all! Unfortunately, the extension doesn't give you extra time for IRA contributions. The deadline for making IRA contributions for the previous tax year is still the original filing deadline (April 15th for most people), regardless of whether you file an extension. So if you want to make a contribution to count for 2023, you need to do it by April 15, 2024, even if you're filing an extension for your tax return.
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Zoe Wang
Just wanted to add something that might help with your Form 4868 extension - since you mentioned getting a refund last year and having a similar financial situation, you're likely safe putting zero for the estimated tax liability. But if you want to be extra cautious, you could put a small amount like $100 just to avoid any potential issues. For the 8949 checkbox confusion, I had the same problem last year! The key thing to remember is that you MUST check one of the boxes - leaving it blank will cause processing delays. Most individual crypto traders end up using Box C (short-term, not reported on 1099-B) and Box F (long-term, not reported on 1099-B) since most exchanges don't provide proper 1099-B forms with cost basis information. One tip that saved me a lot of headaches: keep detailed records of all your transactions with dates, amounts, and what you paid for each crypto. Even if you use software to help calculate everything, having your own backup records is invaluable if the IRS ever has questions. Good luck with your extension!
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