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I switched from W-2 to 1099 last year and heres what surprised me the most: QUARTERLY ESTIMATED TAX PAYMENTS!! You have to basically be your own payroll department and send tax payments 4 times a year. If you dont you can get hit with penalties. Plus theres the whole self-employment tax thing which is like 15% on top of regular income tax. And health insurance is crazy expensive when you have to buy it yourself instead of getting it thru an employer. Unless theyre offering you at least 30% more per hour, stick with the W-2 job!!
This is great advice. I'd also add that keeping track of all your expenses and deductions is a HUGE hassle. I spend at least 2-3 hours every month just organizing receipts and tracking business expenses. Then there's the added cost of tax software or an accountant who knows how to handle 1099 income properly.
As someone who recently went through this exact decision process, I can't stress enough how important it is to run the actual numbers. Based on what you've described - $23/hour W-2 vs $21/hour 1099 - this would be a significant pay cut once you factor in all the additional costs. Here's what I wish someone had told me: With 1099 work, you'll pay an extra 7.65% in self-employment taxes (the employer portion), plus you'll lose the automatic withholding safety net. You'll need to make quarterly estimated tax payments or face penalties. And don't forget about health insurance - if your current W-2 job offers benefits, replacing those on your own can cost $300-600+ per month. The remote work aspect is tempting, but at only 150 guaranteed hours, you're looking at maximum monthly income of $3,150 before taxes (and potentially much less in slow months). Your current position at $23/hour for full-time work gives you more income stability and better take-home pay after all expenses. I'd recommend asking the new company if they can match or exceed your current W-2 compensation when adjusted for the 1099 structure - that would probably need to be around $30/hour to break even financially.
One option nobody's mentioned - you could ask the executor to set aside a reasonable reserve for potential tax liabilities (maybe 15-20% of the newly discovered assets) and distribute the rest now. That's what we did with my grandfather's estate when we found an old stock account two years after he passed.
Can you explain how this reserve amount works? Did you have to go to court to get approval or was this something the executor could decide on their own?
In our case, the executor had discretion to establish a reasonable reserve without court approval. This was specified in my grandfather's will, which gave the executor authority to handle tax matters and create necessary reserves. The way it worked was pretty straightforward. We found an account worth about $45,000. The executor calculated the potential tax liability based on worst-case scenario (highest possible tax bracket plus penalties), which came to about $9,000. They set aside $10,000 to be safe, distributed the remaining $35,000 to the heirs, filed the necessary supplemental tax returns, and then distributed most of the reserve when the actual tax bill came in much lower than expected.
Has the executor filed Form 706 (estate tax return) already? If the estate is under the federal exemption amount (which is over $13 million for 2025), and Form 706 has already been filed and accepted, the ongoing income tax returns should just be for income generated by estate assets, not for the decedent's assets themselves.
I'm not sure about Form 706 specifically. The estate is definitely under the federal exemption amount. So if that form was already filed and accepted, what does that mean for our situation with finding new accounts?
If Form 706 wasn't required (because the estate is under $13+ million), then finding new accounts means you'll need to file amended Form 1041 returns for the estate and possibly amended 1040 returns for your father's final year if the new account had income in 2021. However, the key point is that once you've reported the newly discovered assets and paid any taxes owed, there shouldn't be ongoing annual filings unless the estate is generating new income each year. If it's just a bank account or investment account that you're liquidating, you report it once and you're done. The executor should be able to calculate the maximum possible tax liability from this new account, set aside that amount, and distribute the rest. After 4 years, they really should have a clear process for handling these situations rather than indefinitely delaying distributions.
One thing no one has mentioned - make sure you file in the right order! Start with the oldest year first and work forward. This is important because some tax attributes carry forward from year to year. If you have any business losses, capital losses, or credits that might carry forward, filing out of sequence can really mess things up.
This is super important! I learned this the hard way when I filed 3 years at once but did them in random order. Had to amend everything and it was a nightmare.
Really glad to hear you're getting your life back on track! Six years of unfiled returns might seem overwhelming, but it's absolutely manageable and you're taking the right step by addressing it now. A few key points to keep in mind: Since you mentioned having steady W-2 income with proper withholding, there's a good chance you may have been owed refunds for some of those years (though you can only claim refunds for the last 3 years). The penalty situation might not be as bad as you think if you don't actually owe much. Before jumping into anything, I'd suggest requesting wage and income transcripts from the IRS for each of those years - you can do this online at IRS.gov. This will show you exactly what income the IRS has on file for you and help you gather any missing documents. It's free and can really help you understand your situation before you start filing. Given your income level and the fact that you had withholding, you might be able to handle some of the simpler years yourself using tax software for prior years, but definitely consider getting professional help for at least the first year to make sure you're doing everything correctly. The peace of mind is worth it, and they can often spot opportunities for penalty abatements or other relief you might not know about. You've got this! Taking action now is the hardest part, and it sounds like you're in a much better place to handle it than you were before.
Have you considered forming an LLC for your delivery gig? I did that last year for my UberEats side hustle and it changed how the income is taxed. You still pay some taxes but there are way more deductions available.
Doesn't setting up an LLC cost money though? Is it worth it for just $1000 of income? I'm curious because I do some DoorDash on weekends.
For only $1,050 in annual income, an LLC probably isn't worth the setup costs and annual fees. LLC formation fees vary by state - some are as low as $50 while others are $500+, plus many states have annual fees or reports. The tax benefits of an LLC only really make sense once you're earning more substantial income or have liability concerns. A single-member LLC is still taxed as a sole proprietor by default anyway, so you'd face the same self-employment tax situation unless you elect S-Corp taxation, which adds even more complexity and costs (separate payroll, etc.). Generally, S-Corp treatment doesn't make financial sense until you're earning at least $30,000-40,000 from your business after expenses.
Quick tip from someone who does lots of food delivery: don't forget to track your MILES! Even on a bike, you can deduct $0.22/mile for 2024 (non-motorized rate). For car deliveries its $0.67/mile. This usually works out much better than tracking actual expenses for most people.
Does the bike mileage deduction apply to e-bikes too? Or would those count under the car rate since they're motorized?
Great question! E-bikes are actually treated as regular bicycles for tax purposes, so you'd use the $0.22/mile rate for non-motorized vehicles. The IRS classifies e-bikes as bicycles since they still require pedaling and have speed/power limitations. The motorized vehicle rate ($0.67/mile) is specifically for cars, trucks, motorcycles, and similar vehicles that don't require human power to operate. Just make sure to keep good records of your delivery miles - a simple mileage log with date, starting/ending locations, and business purpose is all you need. Many delivery drivers use apps like MileIQ or Stride to track this automatically.
Gabriel Freeman
Isn't it interesting how we all have different experiences with the same system? Most credit unions release funds as soon as they receive notification, while traditional banks often hold until the official date. Have you checked if your bank has a specific policy for government deposits? Community wisdom suggests calling your bank directly if the deposit doesn't arrive within 24 hours of your DD date. They can see pending deposits before they post to your account.
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NeonNova
Same DD date here (2/22)! I'm with a local credit union and nothing yet as of this morning, but based on what everyone's sharing, it sounds like it could hit anytime between today and Thursday. Really helpful to see the variety of experiences - some getting it exactly on the date, others a day or two later. I'll keep checking throughout the day and update if mine comes through. Thanks for asking this question, @Jayden Reed - was wondering the same thing myself!
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