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Has anyone tried applying for an advance from multiple tax prep companies? I got denied by H&R Block but wondering if I should try Jackson Hewitt or Liberty before just giving up on getting an advance this year.
I tried both TurboTax and Jackson Hewitt - denied by TurboTax first, then got offered $350 from Jackson Hewitt (on a $3800 refund). Not great but better than nothing. I think different companies use different banks so it might be worth trying.
Thanks for sharing your experience! I might try Jackson Hewitt then. $350 isn't much compared to a full refund but it would at least help with a car repair I've been putting off. Did you have to start your whole tax return over with them or was there a way to transfer information?
Just want to point out that tax refund advances are basically payday loans with slightly better marketing. Even when you do get approved, there are usually fees hidden in the tax preparation costs. You're much better off just filing early and waiting the 2-3 weeks for the IRS to process your return. The advances made more sense years ago when refunds took 6-8 weeks, but now it's just not worth it.
That's easy to say when you're not living paycheck to paycheck. Some of us have bills due now and can't just "wait 2-3 weeks." Last year's advance helped me avoid an eviction while waiting for my full refund. I get your point about hidden fees, but for people in tough situations, these advances can be the difference between keeping the lights on or not.
@Amaya Watson You re'absolutely right - it s'really frustrating when people dismiss these advances as unnecessary when they ve'clearly never been in a situation where waiting even a few weeks isn t'an option. While I agree the fees can be predatory, sometimes you need that money immediately for rent, utilities, or car repairs that can t'wait. That said, given how restrictive the approval process has become this year, it might be worth looking into other emergency options if possible - some credit unions offer small emergency loans with better terms, or there are apps like Earnin that let you access earned wages early. But I totally get that those aren t'always available or sufficient when you need a larger amount quickly.
Just a little tip I learned the hard way - if you change jobs mid-year after already hitting the OASDI maximum at your previous employer, your new employer will START WITHHOLDING OASDI AGAIN regardless of what you already paid! You'll get refunded the excess when you file your tax return, but it messes with your cash flow during the year. Happened to me last year and I had to wait months to get back like $3,000 in overpaid Social Security.
Is there any way to avoid this? Can you show your new employer proof of what you've already paid so they won't withhold more than the annual max?
Unfortunately, there's no standard way to prevent this from happening. Each employer is required to withhold OASDI taxes independently based on the wages they pay you, regardless of what you've already contributed to other employers during the year. Your new employer's payroll system doesn't have access to information about your previous earnings or withholdings from other companies. Even if you provide documentation like W-2s or pay stubs showing you've already hit the cap, most payroll departments won't (or can't) adjust their withholding accordingly due to compliance and liability concerns. The good news is that you'll definitely get the excess back when you file your tax return - it's reported on Form 1040 as "Excess social security and tier 1 RRTA tax withheld." But yeah, it definitely creates a cash flow issue in the meantime. Some people plan for this by adjusting their tax withholdings or setting aside money if they know they're likely to switch jobs after hitting the OASDI cap.
Chiming in with actual IRS experience - I worked at a processing center for two years. ALL IRS locations are equipped to route mail to the correct destination. The PO Boxes are mainly for sorting efficiency, but mail gets rerouted internally all the time. Your amended return might be delayed by a week or so, but it definitely won't be rejected just because it went to Charlotte instead of Kansas City. The most important thing is that you used the correct form (1040-X) and included all required supporting documents. As long as you did that and the envelope was properly addressed to an actual IRS facility (which Charlotte is), you should be fine. The "Where's My Amended Return" tool likely won't show anything for 3-4 weeks regardless of which address you used.
Thank you so much for sharing your experience! That's really reassuring to hear from someone who worked inside the system. I definitely used the correct 1040-X form with all supporting documents. So there's no chance they'd just return it to me as "wrong address" or something?
No, they won't return it as "wrong address" - that's not how the IRS operates internally. The only time they'd return something is if it was addressed completely incorrectly (like to "IRS, Washington DC" with no specific address) or if the form itself was so incomplete it couldn't be processed. Your situation is extremely common. The IRS receives thousands of forms sent to non-optimal addresses every day, and they have established protocols for routing them internally. Just be aware that amended returns are taking 20+ weeks to process even when sent to the right address, so you'll need patience regardless. But your return is definitely in the system and will be processed.
Little tip from someone who's been audited twice - always keep copies of EVERYTHING you send to the IRS and always use certified mail with return receipt! That way you have proof of exactly when and where you sent it. For future reference, you can always double-check the correct mailing address on the IRS website rather than relying on tax software. Sometimes the software isn't updated for recent IRS address changes.
Does certified mail really matter? I've always just dropped my stuff in the blue collection boxes. Never had issues but maybe I've just been lucky?
Certified mail is absolutely worth it, especially for amended returns! I learned this the hard way when the IRS claimed they never received my 1040-X that I dropped in a regular mailbox. Without proof of delivery, I had to refile everything and start the process over. The $5-6 for certified mail could save you months of headaches if there's ever a question about whether they received your documents. Plus with amended returns taking so long to process, having that delivery confirmation gives you peace of mind that it at least made it to them.
Something no one has mentioned yet is that you should also consider property taxes in your calculation. In expensive areas, property taxes can easily push you well over the standard deduction even without much mortgage interest. But then you hit the $10K SALT cap, which really reduces the benefit for high earners in high-tax states. I'm in NY with a $1.2M house, and my property tax alone is $20K, but I can only deduct $10K of it.
Do you know if you can still deduct mortgage interest if you're hit by the AMT? I've heard conflicting things about this.
Yes, you can still deduct mortgage interest under AMT, which is one of the few deductions that remains intact. However, property taxes are not deductible under AMT, which is another blow to homeowners in high-tax states. Since the 2017 tax changes, fewer people are hit by AMT than before, but it's still a concern for high-income earners with large deductions. If you're close to AMT territory, you should definitely run the numbers both ways to see the actual benefit.
One thing I've found helpful as another high-income earner is to look at the effective interest rate after tax savings, not just the dollar amount saved. If you're borrowing $1M at 6.2% and your effective rate after tax benefits is 5.1%, that's still a pretty high rate historically. Would you borrow money at 5.1% to invest elsewhere? That's essentially what you're doing when you choose a smaller down payment to "take advantage" of the mortgage interest deduction.
That's a really good way of looking at it! I never thought about it that way. What would you say is the threshold where it makes sense to put more down vs. keeping cash for other investments?
That's exactly the right framework to think about it! I generally use the risk-free rate as my baseline - if I can't reasonably expect to earn more than my effective mortgage rate in other investments, then paying down the mortgage makes more sense. Right now with 10-year treasuries around 4.5%, an effective mortgage rate of 5.1% after taxes means you'd need to find investments yielding over 5.1% just to break even. When you factor in the risk of those investments versus the guaranteed "return" of paying down your mortgage, the math often favors the larger down payment. Plus, at our income levels, we're likely already maxing out tax-advantaged accounts, so any additional investments would be in taxable accounts where the returns get hit with capital gains taxes too.
Mason Davis
You might want to look into whether your entity type is still right for you. As a single member LLC, you're probably filing Schedule C with your personal taxes. But if you're showing consistent losses, there could be other considerations. Have you talked to a tax pro about the potential benefits/drawbacks of S-Corp election? Might not make sense while you're still in the red, but something to consider if you think profitability is on the horizon.
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Mia Rodriguez
ā¢S-Corp election won't help with hobby loss issues though. The IRS applies the same profit motive tests regardless of entity structure. It could potentially help with self-employment taxes once profitable, but won't address the current issues.
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Omar Zaki
I'm dealing with something very similar with my online reselling business - three years of losses and getting nervous about the hobby loss rule. One thing that helped me feel more confident was creating a formal business plan that shows specific steps I'm taking to become profitable. The key insight I got from my CPA is that the IRS isn't just counting years of losses - they're looking at whether you're operating like a real business. Since you have wholesale accounts, proper record keeping in QuickBooks, and are making operational changes, those are all strong indicators of business intent. For the inventory question if you dissolve - my understanding is that you'd need to report any inventory you keep at fair market value as income, but you should definitely confirm this with a tax professional. Have you considered maybe scaling back operations instead of fully dissolving? Sometimes reducing inventory investment while maintaining the business structure can help turn things around.
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