Just to add some clarity for anyone still confused - the key thing to remember is that these unemployment taxes (U/C and SUI) are state-specific, so what you see on your W2 depends entirely on which state you work in. Some states have no employee unemployment tax at all, while others collect both U/C and SUI from employees. The important thing for tax filing purposes is that these amounts are already included in your total state tax withholding on your W2. You don't need to enter them separately anywhere on your tax return - they're just broken out on the W2 for informational purposes. Your tax software or preparer will use the total state withholding amount, not these individual line items. If you're unsure about your specific state's setup, your state's department of labor or revenue website will have detailed explanations of their unemployment tax structure.

This is such a helpful thread! I was dealing with the exact same confusion when I got my W2 this year. What really helped me understand it was thinking of U/C and SUI as two different "buckets" that fund unemployment benefits, but they're filled by different sources. In my state (California), I pay into both systems as an employee - the U/C comes out of my paycheck, and there's also an SUI component. But like others mentioned, my employer also pays their own SUI contribution that doesn't come from my wages. One thing I learned is that even though these show up as separate line items on the W2, when you're actually filing your taxes, you just use the total state withholding amount. The individual U/C and SUI amounts are really just for your own understanding of where your money went, not for separate tax calculations. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - it's reassuring to know I wasn't the only one puzzled by these abbreviations!

Don't forget to check if your father had a safe deposit box or if there's a filing cabinet somewhere with a "property" or "real estate" folder. My dad was also terrible with records but had one secret place where he kept all important documents. Also, if he worked with a specific realtor for these purchases, they sometimes keep transaction records for longtime clients. Worth tracking down if you know who he worked with.

I went through something very similar with my grandmother's properties after she passed. One thing that really helped was checking with the title insurance company that handled the original closings. Even if it was decades ago, many title companies keep their records digitally archived now and can pull up the original HUD-1 settlement statements that show exactly what was paid. Also, don't overlook homeowner's insurance records if your dad kept those. Insurance companies often have the original insured value when the policy was first written, which can give you a ballpark estimate of the purchase price from that time period. If you're still stuck, consider hiring a forensic accountant who specializes in estate tax issues. They know all the tricks for reconstructing financial records and can provide documentation that will satisfy the IRS. It might cost a few hundred dollars but could save you thousands in overpaid capital gains taxes.

Does anyone use specific tax software that handles AMT calculations well? I tried using TurboTax last year and it seemed to miss some of my mortgage interest deductions against AMT.

One thing that helped me understand this better was creating a spreadsheet to track all my deductions under both regular tax and AMT calculations. For mortgage interest, as others mentioned, it's generally deductible under both systems if you itemize - but make sure you distinguish between acquisition debt (buying/building your home) versus home equity debt, as the rules can differ. The property tax hit under AMT is real and painful. I ended up owing about $3,000 more in AMT partly because I lost my $8,500 property tax deduction. What really caught me off guard was that miscellaneous itemized deductions (like tax prep fees, unreimbursed employee expenses) are also completely eliminated under AMT. One strategy that might help: if you have control over the timing of when you exercise your remaining ISOs, consider spreading them across multiple years to potentially stay below the AMT exemption thresholds. The AMT exemption starts phasing out at higher income levels, so managing your ISO exercises strategically could save you significant money.

LPT: While you're waiting for this to get sorted, check out r/beermoney for some ways to make a few extra bucks online. Might help tide you over!

Hey Tony! I went through this same thing last year. The whole process took about 3-4 weeks from start to finish, but that included the phone verification and then waiting for them to actually process the refund after verification. Make sure you call early in the morning (like 7-8am) to avoid the worst of the hold times. Also, have your tax return handy - they might ask you specific questions about amounts or forms you filed. Don't worry, it's mostly just a formality these days with all the fraud going around. You'll get your money!

One thing nobody's mentioned yet - if you're really in a bind financially, you might qualify for Currently Not Collectible status. It's basically where the IRS determines you can't afford to pay them right now due to your financial situation. Interest and penalties still accrue, but collections actions stop. You have to disclose all your financial info (income, expenses, assets) using Form 433-F, and they'll determine if your necessary living expenses leave you unable to pay. It's temporary - they'll review your situation periodically to see if your finances have improved.

Just a quick warning from personal experience - if you wait until February 2025 without making ANY arrangements with the IRS, you might start getting notices about tax liens or levies before then. The IRS typically starts sending notices about 45 days after your filing if you owe money, and they escalate from there. After about 6 months of non-payment and non-communication, they might file a Notice of Federal Tax Lien, which appears on your credit report and can really mess up your ability to get loans, credit cards, etc. If you go further without addressing it, they could potentially levy (take money from) your bank accounts or garnish wages.