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Have you considered tax filing services like TaxAct or TaxSlayer? Some of them can efile prior year returns for much less than what a CPA would charge. I used TaxSlayer last year to file my 2021 return in January 2023 and it cost me around $70 total. Might be worth checking if you qualify for their services before dropping $375 on a CPA.
I actually tried using TurboTax first, but they wouldn't let me efile 2022 returns anymore. Something about the IRS cutting off electronic filing for prior years after a certain date. Do you know if TaxSlayer specifically allows efiling for prior years longer than other services?
The cutoff for efiling prior year returns through consumer tax software is usually around October/November for the previous tax year. After that, only tax professionals with certain credentials and professional software can efile older returns. TaxSlayer, TurboTax, TaxAct - they all follow the same IRS deadlines. That's why in your situation, you're left with either paying a professional or mailing it in. If you've already missed the consumer software deadline, the CPA route is your only option for efiling at this point.
Whatever you do, just make sure you actually file! I made the mistake of procrastinating on a 2020 return thinking "I'll get to it eventually" and ended up missing out on almost $1,800 in refund money because I passed the 3-year deadline to claim it. The deadline for 2022 returns to get refunds is April 15, 2026, so you still have plenty of time, but don't wait too long!
Wait, there's a deadline to claim refunds? I haven't filed taxes for like 3 years because I've been living overseas... now I'm worried I might have lost money that's owed to me. Can you still file after the deadline even if you can't get the refund anymore?
@Giovanni Rossi Yes, there s'a 3-year deadline from the original due date to claim refunds. So for 2021 taxes, the deadline was April 15, 2025 - you might have just missed it! For 2020, that deadline already passed in April 2024. You can still file the returns after the deadline, but you won t'get any refunds the IRS owes you - that money just goes back to the Treasury. However, if you actually owed taxes for those years, you ll'still be responsible for paying them plus penalties and interest. I d'strongly recommend talking to a tax professional ASAP about your situation, especially with the overseas complications. There might be special rules or exceptions that could help you, and you definitely want to get current before you miss any more deadlines!
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - your SIC/NAICS code can affect your insurance rates too! My business insurance premiums were way higher than quotes I saw online because the insurance company had classified my e-learning business under a higher-risk category. Once I pointed out the correct NAICS code, my premiums dropped by almost 30%. So definitely take the time to get this right.
Wow, I had no idea insurance rates could be affected too. Do you know if it's possible to change your code later if you realize you picked the wrong one? Or are you kind of stuck with whatever you initially choose?
You can absolutely change your classification codes later if needed. Businesses evolve over time, and sometimes your primary activities shift. Just be aware that if you're changing them on existing accounts (like with your insurance company or bank), they might ask questions about why you're changing classification. The important thing is to be accurate and consistent. If you realize you've been using the wrong code, it's better to correct it than to continue with an inaccurate classification. Just make sure you update it everywhere - tax filings, loans, insurance, etc. - to avoid discrepancies that might raise red flags.
Here's my 2 cents as someone who's owned multiple small businesses - don't overthink this too much. Pick the code that most accurately represents what your business actually does. The NAICS website has a search function where you can type in keywords related to your business and find matching codes. Just be honest!
But doesn't picking certain codes make you more likely to get audited? I heard restaurants and cash-based businesses get flagged more often.
Has anyone received guidance on how this will be reported on 2025 tax forms? Will the broker issue a special statement breaking down the taxable vs non-taxable portions?
My broker (Fidelity) said they'll provide a specialized 1099-B that will show the cash portion as a sale with proceeds and cost basis. For the stock conversion portion, they'll transfer your cost basis to the new shares and note that it was part of a tax-free reorganization. You should get a detailed statement explaining everything in January that you can use for your taxes.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the importance of tracking your basis properly for the converted Broadcom shares. Since this is a tax-free reorganization, your original VMware cost basis carries over, but you'll need to adjust it for the conversion ratio. For example, if you had 100 VMware shares with a $50 basis each ($5,000 total), and you convert at the 0.2520 ratio, you'll end up with 25.2 Broadcom shares. Your total basis remains $5,000, but now it's spread across 25.2 shares, giving you a per-share basis of about $198.41 for the Broadcom stock. Make sure to keep detailed records of this conversion because when you eventually sell the Broadcom shares, you'll need this adjusted basis to calculate your gain or loss correctly. Your brokerage should handle this automatically, but it's good to double-check their math and keep your own records as backup.
This is really helpful! I was wondering about the basis calculation. Just to make sure I understand - if I have VMware shares from different purchase dates with different cost bases, do I need to track the conversion for each lot separately? For example, if I have 50 shares at $40 basis and 50 shares at $60 basis, would the converted Broadcom shares maintain those different basis amounts proportionally?
@4870c5506e2b Yes, you're absolutely correct! You need to track each tax lot separately through the conversion. Each lot of VMware shares maintains its own identity with its specific purchase date, holding period, and cost basis. So in your example: - Your 50 shares at $40 basis ($2,000 total) would convert to 12.6 Broadcom shares (50 ร 0.2520) with a basis of $158.73 per share ($2,000 รท 12.6) - Your 50 shares at $60 basis ($3,000 total) would convert to 12.6 Broadcom shares with a basis of $238.10 per share ($3,000 รท 12.6) The holding period for each converted lot also carries over from the original VMware purchase dates. This lot-level tracking is crucial for determining whether future sales qualify for long-term vs short-term capital gains treatment, and for calculating the correct gain/loss when you eventually sell the Broadcom shares. Most brokers will handle this automatically, but I'd definitely recommend keeping your own spreadsheet as backup documentation!
Just to give another perspective - my wife and I file separately EVERY year even though we pay more in taxes. I'm self-employed with some complicated investments, and she's a w2 employee who's very risk-averse. Filing separately gives her peace of mind that she's not liable for any potential issues with my business reporting. For us, the extra ~$3,200 we pay in additional tax is worth the relationship harmony and her peace of mind. Sometimes the financial cost isn't the only factor to consider.
Do you ever regret that choice in years when everything goes smoothly with your taxes? That's a pretty hefty "marriage tax penalty" to pay every year just for some theoretical protection.
I can relate to Philip's situation. My husband has rental properties and some cryptocurrency trading that makes our taxes pretty complex. We've been filing separately for 2 years now and yes, we pay more in taxes, but I sleep better at night knowing I won't be on the hook if the IRS decides to audit his crypto transactions or question some of his property depreciation claims. The peace of mind is definitely worth something, especially when you're dealing with a spouse who might be taking tax positions that are more aggressive than you're comfortable with. Sometimes protecting your financial future is more important than saving money in the short term.
I'm dealing with a similar situation right now! My spouse has been doing some freelance work and I'm not entirely confident in how he's handling the tax reporting. From what I've learned, you might still have a narrow window to withdraw your return if it hasn't been processed yet, but you'll need both spouses to agree to the withdrawal. One thing I'd suggest is calling the IRS practitioner priority line (if you're working with a tax pro) or the regular taxpayer assistance line as early as possible - like right when they open at 7 AM. The wait times are usually shorter in the morning. You'll want to ask specifically about withdrawing an electronically filed return that's still being processed. Also, make sure you understand exactly what liability protection you'd actually get from filing separately. It's not a magic shield - you're still jointly liable for taxes on joint income and assets. The protection mainly applies to situations where one spouse has unreported income or fraudulent deductions that the other spouse genuinely didn't know about. If you're just worried about aggressive but legitimate business deductions, filing separately might cost you thousands without providing meaningful protection.
Aaron Lee
This is such a common concern! I work in banking and see customers worried about this all the time. Here's a quick tip that might help: if you bank online, you can usually find your routing and account numbers in your account details section to cross-reference with what you originally entered on your return. Also, many banks will send you a notification if there's an attempted deposit that fails due to incorrect information - so if your banking details were wrong, you'd likely know pretty quickly when the IRS tries to process your refund. Most banks are pretty good about flagging unusual deposit attempts. The paper check backup that others mentioned is reassuring too - the IRS won't just lose your refund if the direct deposit fails!
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CosmicCowboy
โขThat's such a helpful perspective from someone in banking! I never thought about banks sending notifications for failed deposits - that would definitely give me peace of mind. Do you know if all banks do this, or is it more common with certain types of accounts? Also, approximately how long does it usually take for a bank to notify customers about a failed deposit attempt?
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Alberto Souchard
I've been through this exact same worry! As someone who's dealt with this issue multiple times over the years, I can confirm what others have said - the banking information simply isn't visible on any transcript you can access online. Here's what I've learned from experience: **Quick verification steps:** 1. Log into your tax software account if you e-filed - most keep your submitted return accessible for months 2. Check your email for any filing confirmations that might include account details 3. Look at your bank statements around the time you filed - sometimes you can spot what account number you likely used based on recent activity **Red flags to watch for:** - If it's been more than 21 days since your expected refund date with no deposit - Your "Where's My Refund" tool shows any processing issues - You receive any IRS notices about payment problems The good news is that even if there was an error, the IRS will mail you a paper check once the direct deposit fails - it just adds 3-4 weeks to the process as others mentioned. I actually had this happen in 2019 and while frustrating, I did eventually get my full refund. At your age, I totally understand wanting to avoid unnecessary delays with your money. The peace of mind is worth a quick double-check of your filed return copy!
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Liam Sullivan
โขThis is incredibly thorough advice! I especially appreciate the practical timeline you mentioned - knowing that even with an error, it's typically just a 3-4 week delay makes this much less stressful. The tip about checking email confirmations is brilliant too - I completely forgot that my tax software sent me a detailed filing summary. One question though: when you mention the "Where's My Refund" tool showing processing issues, are there specific status messages we should watch out for that might indicate banking problems? I've been checking it obsessively but I'm not sure what would signal a direct deposit issue versus other processing delays. Thanks for sharing your real-world experience - it's so much more reassuring than just reading the official IRS guidelines!
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