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Hey Ben! I totally get the anxiety - I went through the exact same thing a few weeks ago. Like others mentioned, "Notice issued" usually just means they're sending you paperwork about some kind of adjustment or review. Since you claimed EIC, it's probably just their standard verification process. The good news is that your return is actually moving through the system rather than being stuck in limbo. Most of the time these notices are pretty routine - could be anything from verifying your income to a small calculation adjustment. Try to stay calm until you get the actual notice in the mail, then you'll know exactly what they need from you. Hang in there! šŖ
This is so helpful! I'm actually in a similar situation - got the "Notice issued" status last week and have been losing sleep over it. Really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences here. Makes me feel like I'm not alone in this whole confusing process. Definitely going to try to stay positive until I see what the actual notice says!
Hey Ben! I completely understand your anxiety about this - I was in your exact shoes about 3 months ago. Got the dreaded "Notice issued" on my transcript and immediately thought the worst. Turns out it was just a CP05 notice asking me to verify some information since I also claimed EIC. The whole process took about 6-8 weeks but I eventually got my full refund. The waiting is honestly the hardest part, but try to remember that "Notice issued" means they're actually working on your case rather than it just sitting in a pile somewhere. Keep checking your mailbox and once you get the notice, it'll tell you exactly what they need. Most of the time it's way less scary than we imagine it to be! Hang in there - you've got this! š
Has anyone actually looked closely at Form 8889, especially Line 14a and 14b? Line 14a is where you put the total distributions, and 14b is where you put the qualified medical expense portion. If the entire distribution was used for qualified medical expenses, the taxable amount on Line 16 would be zero. Honestly, missing this form when the result is zero added tax is pretty low-risk, but if you're worried, I'd recommend using free fillable forms to complete just Form 8889 yourself. It's not that complicated if you have your 1099-SA and medical receipts. Then file another 1040-X and attach the 8889.
Form 8889 can be confusing though. Don't you also have to account for the HSA contributions in Part I? And what about the boxes on the 1099-SA? If box 3 is checked it changes how you fill out the form.
You're right about completing the full form - you do need to include Part I if you made contributions. But if this is just about reporting a distribution that was missed, and you correctly reported your contributions on the original return, you might only need to fill out Part II. As for the 1099-SA boxes, yes - box 3 indicates if it's a distribution from a Medicare Advantage MSA or an Archer MSA rather than an HSA, which would change which form you use. But assuming this is a standard HSA distribution (which seems to be the case), box 3 should not be checked. Box 2 is important too - it indicates the earnings on excess contributions, which would be taxable regardless of how the money was spent.
I went through something very similar with my HSA distributions last year. After reading everyone's advice here, I'd strongly recommend filing the second amendment to include Form 8889, even though it won't change your tax liability. Here's why: The IRS absolutely does match 1099-SA forms to tax returns through their automated systems. Even if there's no tax impact, missing forms can trigger CP2000 notices months later. I know Elliott mentioned getting one for a similar situation - it's not fun to deal with even when you have all the documentation. Since your CPA missed including this form on your amended return, they should definitely help fix it without charging you additional fees. This was their oversight, not yours. I'd approach them with that expectation. If you decide to go the DIY route, Form 8889 isn't too complex for a straightforward qualified distribution like yours. You'll report the $3,500 on Line 14a (total distributions), the same amount on Line 14b (qualified medical expenses), which should result in zero taxable distribution on Line 16. Just make sure you keep all those medical receipts organized in case of future questions. The peace of mind from proper reporting is worth avoiding potential IRS correspondence later. Good luck!
This is really helpful advice, thank you! I'm definitely leaning toward filing the second amendment after reading everyone's experiences. One question though - when you file a second amendment for the same tax year, do you need to do anything special on the 1040-X to indicate it's the second one? I'm worried about confusing their system or having it look like I'm trying to amend the original return instead of the first amended return. Also, has anyone had success getting their CPA to cover the cost when they made an error like this? I'm not sure how to approach that conversation without seeming confrontational, but it really was their mistake to miss the 1099-SA that I provided to them.
Just be aware that even if you miss the 2-out-of-5 year window, you might still qualify for a partial exclusion! This is especially true if your move was work-related. The IRS allows for partial exclusions if the main reason for selling is: 1) Change in place of employment 2) Health reasons 3) Unforeseen circumstances Since you mentioned moving for work reasons, you might qualify even if you miss the full 2-year window. The partial exclusion is prorated based on how long you actually lived there.
Do you know what counts as "unforeseen circumstances"? My brother had to sell after only living in his place for 1 year because of a divorce - would that count?
Yes, divorce typically qualifies as an "unforeseen circumstance" for the partial exclusion! The IRS specifically lists divorce or legal separation as one of the qualifying reasons. Your brother would be able to claim a partial exclusion based on the fraction of the 2-year period he actually lived there. So if he lived there for 1 year out of the required 2 years, he could claim 50% of the normal exclusion amount ($250,000 for single filers, so he'd get $125,000 excluded from capital gains). The key is being able to document that the divorce was the primary reason for the sale. Other unforeseen circumstances that qualify include natural disasters, job loss, multiple births from the same pregnancy, and becoming eligible for unemployment compensation. The IRS has gotten more flexible with this category over the years.
This is such a stressful situation but you're smart to plan ahead! I went through something similar in 2022 and learned the hard way that the IRS doesn't give any wiggle room on that closing date - it's the actual date of sale that matters, not when you list or accept an offer. Given that your window closes in June 2026, I'd honestly recommend listing by March 2026 at the latest to give yourself a solid 3-month buffer. Real estate transactions can drag on forever with inspections, appraisals, financing delays, etc. Also, since you moved for your husband's job opportunity, definitely look into whether you qualify for the partial exclusion that others mentioned. If the job move meets the IRS distance requirements (50+ miles), you could still get some exclusion even if you miss the full 2-year window. Document everything about the job-related move - offer letters, distance between old/new workplace, etc. This could be your safety net if the sale timing doesn't work out perfectly.
This is really solid advice about listing early! I'm dealing with a similar timeline crunch and hadn't thought about how long the actual closing process can take. Three months buffer sounds very reasonable given all the potential delays. Quick question about the job-related move distance requirement - is that 50 miles measured from your old home to the new job, or from the old job to the new job? We moved about 60 miles away from our house for my spouse's position, but the commute from our old house to the new job would have been about 75 miles each way. Just want to make sure we're measuring this correctly in case we need to fall back on the partial exclusion.
One thing to keep in mind with the home office deduction for your shed - make sure you're clear on whether to use the simplified method or actual expense method. The simplified method is $5 per square foot up to 300 sq ft maximum ($1,500 total), so for your 240 sq ft shed you'd get a $1,200 deduction. It's super easy but you can't depreciate the shed separately. The actual expense method lets you deduct the actual percentage of home expenses plus depreciation on the shed itself. Given that your shed is a separate insulated structure with its own utilities, you might come out ahead with actual expenses - especially since you can depreciate the shed's value over 39 years as nonresidential real property. I'd calculate both methods to see which gives you the bigger deduction. The actual expense method requires more record keeping but could save you significantly more than the simplified $1,200, especially with a nice setup like you described.
This is really helpful - I hadn't even thought about the difference between the two methods! Since the shed has its own electrical panel and HVAC system, I'm definitely leaning toward the actual expense method. Do you happen to know if I can depreciate improvements I make to the shed (like if I add better insulation or upgrade the electrical) separately from the shed itself? And would I need to get the shed appraised to establish its value for depreciation purposes, or can I use something like the property tax assessment?
Yes, you can depreciate improvements separately! Any improvements you make to the shed for business use can be depreciated as separate assets. Better insulation, electrical upgrades, flooring improvements, etc. would typically be depreciated over 39 years as nonresidential real property improvements. For establishing the shed's value, you don't necessarily need a formal appraisal. You can use the property tax assessment as a starting point, or if you have records of what the previous owner paid to build it, that works too. Another approach is to get quotes from contractors for what it would cost to build a similar structure today and work backwards. The key is having reasonable documentation for how you arrived at the value. Keep records of any improvements you make with receipts and dates - those are much easier to document since you'll have the actual costs. The IRS is generally reasonable about valuation methods as long as they're not wildly inflated.
Another consideration I haven't seen mentioned yet - if you're planning to sell your house in the next few years, be aware that claiming home office deduction can have capital gains implications. When you sell, the portion of your home that was depreciated for business use may be subject to depreciation recapture taxes. This might not be a big deal if you're planning to stay put for a long time, but it's something to factor into your decision between the simplified method (which doesn't involve depreciation) versus the actual expense method. The simplified method avoids this issue entirely since you're not depreciating any part of the property. Also, since your shed is a separate structure, you might want to check with your homeowner's insurance to make sure business use is covered. Some policies exclude or limit coverage for business activities, and you don't want to find out after something happens that your embroidery equipment isn't covered.
Ian Armstrong
Don't forget about state taxes! I sold some collectible comic books last year and was shocked that my state wanted a piece too. Depending on where you live, you might owe state income tax on the gains. Some states also have weird exceptions or special rates for collectibles.
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Eli Butler
ā¢Yeah good point. In California they hit me with their regular income tax rate on my collectible sales, which was way higher than the federal 28% collectibles rate. Made a big difference in my overall tax bill!
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Andre Laurent
One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is timing considerations. If you're planning to sell multiple pieces, you might want to spread the sales across different tax years to manage your tax bracket, especially since collectibles are taxed at that higher 28% rate. Also, if any of the pieces have appreciated significantly since you inherited them, consider getting a current appraisal before selling. This can help establish fair market value for insurance purposes during the selling process, and it gives you documentation to support your sale price if the IRS ever questions it. For the $3,800-4,500 piece you mentioned, definitely keep detailed records of comparable sales you find online - screenshot them with dates. This kind of documentation can be really valuable if you need to justify your basis calculation later.
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Isabel Vega
ā¢Great advice about timing and spreading sales across tax years! I hadn't thought about that strategy. Just to clarify though - when you say "manage your tax bracket," does the 28% collectibles rate apply regardless of your regular income tax bracket, or does your overall income level affect how collectibles are taxed? I'm trying to figure out if selling everything in one year versus spreading it out would make a meaningful difference for someone in a lower income bracket.
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