This is such a frustrating situation! I went through something similar during my divorce where my ex tried to claim deductions he wasn't entitled to. From what you've described, you're absolutely in the right here - you have sole ownership via the deed, you've been making all the payments from your personal account, and your divorce decree explicitly gives you the house and related benefits. I'd recommend keeping a file with all your key documents together: the deed showing only your name, your divorce decree (especially the section about the house), and all your property tax payment records from 2024. If the IRS flags both returns for review, having everything organized will make the resolution much faster. One thing that really helped me was getting a property tax payment history from my county assessor's office. It shows exactly who made each payment and when, which was ironclad proof when the IRS reviewed our case. Don't stress too much about this - the IRS deals with these post-divorce disputes all the time, and they're pretty good at sorting them out when the facts are clear. Just file your return correctly and keep your documentation handy. Your ex is going to have a very difficult time explaining why he thinks he can claim deductions on property he doesn't own and taxes he didn't pay!

This is absolutely infuriating! Your ex has no legal right to claim those deductions whatsoever. The IRS is crystal clear on this - you can only deduct property taxes if you both own the property AND actually paid the taxes. Since the deed is solely in your name and you've been paying all the taxes from your personal account since the divorce, the deductions are 100% yours. I'd definitely gather all your documentation now: the deed showing only your name, your divorce decree (especially the part about you getting the house), and all your 2024 property tax payment records (bank statements, receipts, etc.). The county assessor payment history is also a great suggestion from others here. When you file your return, just claim the deductions correctly. If the IRS systems flag duplicate claims, they'll send letters to both of you asking for proof. You'll send in your documentation and his claim will be denied since he literally has no proof of ownership or payment. Don't contact him directly about this - it'll just create drama. Let the IRS handle it through their normal process. He's basically committing tax fraud by claiming deductions he has no right to, and the system will catch it. Just file correctly and keep your paperwork organized!

This is why I avoid WHFIT structured ETFs completely. The tax reporting is a nightmare, especially with brokers that don't properly track the adjusted basis. Has anyone successfully gotten their broker to update the cost basis in their account to reflect these adjustments? Mine shows the original purchase price regardless of all these "distributions.

This WHFIT situation with IBIT is exactly why I always recommend keeping detailed records from day one. I learned this the hard way with another Bitcoin ETF last year. What helped me was creating a simple tracking system: original purchase price minus all those monthly "phantom proceeds" equals my adjusted cost basis. The key insight is that these aren't actual taxable events - they're just the fund passing through basis adjustments to you as the shareholder. Your tax software should allow you to manually enter the adjusted cost basis when you eventually sell. Just make sure to keep documentation showing how you calculated it in case the IRS ever asks. The monthly statements from your broker plus the 1099-B entries should provide a clear paper trail. Don't stress too much about the missing cost basis column on the 1099-B - that's unfortunately normal for these WHFIT structures. Focus on tracking your adjusted basis separately and you'll be fine when it comes time to actually sell the shares.

Jacob, I totally understand the overwhelm - filing taxes for the first time while juggling eBay sales can feel really confusing! Based on what you've described, here's the bottom line: Since you made $1,300 in sales but originally paid $650-700 for those items, you're looking at roughly $600-650 in profit. However, since these were personal items that have likely depreciated over time, your actual taxable profit might be even less (or possibly zero if you factor in reasonable depreciation). The key things to know: - eBay will likely send you a 1099-K since you exceeded $600 in sales - You only report actual profit, not the full sales amount - Personal items sold at a loss aren't taxable income - Keep records of what you originally paid (or reasonable estimates) For your first time filing, I'd recommend using software like FreeTaxUSA that can walk you through reporting this income properly. It's way cheaper than the premium tax software versions, and for a straightforward situation like yours, you probably don't need to pay for a tax preparer. The most important thing is not to stress too much - the IRS understands the difference between someone occasionally selling personal items and someone running an actual business. Just be honest about your actual profits and you'll be fine!

Jacob, I completely understand your situation - I was in almost the exact same spot when I first started filing taxes! The good news is that your situation is actually pretty straightforward once you understand the basics. Since you sold $1,300 worth of personal items that originally cost you $650-700, you're looking at roughly $600-650 in profit. However, there's an important concept called depreciation to consider - most personal items (clothes, electronics, collectibles) lose value over time through normal wear and use. So even though you made $1,300 in sales, if these items had depreciated since you originally bought them, your actual taxable profit could be much lower or even zero. The IRS really distinguishes between people who are running actual reselling businesses versus folks like you who are just cleaning out their closets. Since these weren't items you bought specifically to resell, and you're not doing this regularly as a business, you're in a much simpler tax situation. You'll likely receive a 1099-K from eBay since you exceeded $600 in sales, but remember - that form just shows your gross sales, not your taxable profit. You only pay taxes on the actual profit after accounting for what you originally paid and reasonable depreciation. For your first time filing, I'd suggest using one of the free or low-cost tax software options that can walk you through this step by step. Don't stress too much - the IRS isn't trying to penalize college students selling old stuff!

Thanks for all the detailed responses everyone! As someone who just went through this process for my plumbing business, I can confirm that GVWR is definitely what the IRS looks at for Section 179 qualification. One thing I'd add is to make sure you're working with a tax professional who understands business vehicle deductions. I initially tried to handle this myself and almost made some costly mistakes. My CPA pointed out that even with a qualifying vehicle, you need to be careful about the luxury vehicle limitations and make sure your business use percentage is properly documented from day one. Also, if you're financing the vehicle, the timing of when you place it in service matters for the deduction. I bought my truck in December but didn't start using it for business until January, which affected which tax year I could claim the deduction. These details can make a big difference in your tax planning.

Great thread everyone! As a tax preparer who deals with Section 179 questions regularly, I wanted to add a few clarifications that might help others: 1. **GVWR is absolutely correct** - it's the manufacturer's rating, period. This is found on the door jamb sticker and is what the IRS uses for the 6,000 lb threshold. 2. **Documentation timing matters** - Start your mileage log the day you take delivery, not when you "officially" start using it for business. Even driving it home from the dealer for business purposes counts. 3. **Mixed-use vehicles** - If you use the vehicle for both business and personal, you can only deduct the business percentage. The IRS is very strict about this, so accurate records from day one are crucial. 4. **State considerations** - Don't forget that some states have different rules or may not conform to federal Section 179 deductions. Check with your state tax authority or CPA. One last tip: If you're right at the 6,000 lb threshold, get the manufacturer's official GVWR documentation beyond just the door sticker. Having multiple sources can help if you ever face questions during an audit.

Wait I'm confused - I thought home office deduction was part of itemizing? So if I take standard deduction I can't claim my home office for my sole proprietorship? I've been doing this wrong for years then!

This is such a common misconception! I went through the exact same confusion when I started my consulting business. The key thing to remember is that Schedule C business expenses and the standard deduction operate on completely different "levels" of your tax return. Think of it like this: Schedule C calculates your net business profit (gross income minus business expenses), and that net profit number flows to Line 3 of your Form 1040. Then, much later in the process, you decide whether to take the standard deduction or itemize your personal deductions. So yes, absolutely organize those receipts and track your business expenses! Every legitimate business expense reduces both your income tax AND your self-employment tax (which is 15.3% on net earnings). Even if your business has slowed down, those deductions are still valuable. For your accountant, provide everything you mentioned: all 1099s/W2s, organized business expenses by category, and your investment statements. Since you have a Solo 401k, make sure to include any contributions you made there too - those are also deductible regardless of whether you itemize or take the standard deduction.