Great to hear you figured it out, Paolo! Just to add one more tip for anyone else reading this - when you're filling out applications that ask for gross income, it's always worth double-checking what they specifically mean. Some forms will clarify whether they want "total income before taxes" (which would be Line 9) or "adjusted gross income" (Line 11). If they don't specify and you're unsure, you can always call the organization directly to ask which number they prefer. Better to spend 5 minutes on a phone call than have your application delayed or rejected because of confusion about income reporting!

This thread has been incredibly helpful! As someone who works in tax preparation, I see this confusion all the time. Just wanted to add that if you're ever unsure about which line to use, you can also look at the instructions for the specific form you're filling out - they often provide examples like "use Line 9 from Form 1040" or "enter your AGI from Line 11." Also, for those with more complex tax situations (multiple income sources, business income, rental properties, etc.), it might be worth keeping a simple spreadsheet with your key tax numbers each year. I tell my clients to note down their Line 9 total income, Line 11 AGI, and their effective tax rate - these are the numbers you'll need most often for applications throughout the year. Saves a lot of time digging through paperwork later!

For anyone dealing with this in the future - I had this same issue and found out you can actually request your official address format directly from USPS. Go to https://tools.usps.com/zip-code-lookup.htm, enter your address, and it will show you the standardized format. Use EXACTLY what they show (including their abbreviations) and it should work for e-filing. I've learned that tax software can be super picky about formatting, but if you use the exact USPS standard format, you'll be good to go. Saved me from having to use any special services or paper filing.

I went through this exact same frustrating experience with TurboTax last year! My address has a long rural route designation plus a mailbox cluster number that put me over the character limit. What finally worked for me was breaking down my address using the official USPS Publication 28 guidelines. For rural routes, you can abbreviate to "RR" followed by the route number, then "Box" becomes "Bx". So "Rural Route 5, Box 1234-A" becomes "RR 5 Bx 1234-A" which saves a ton of characters. Also, if you have directional indicators in your address (North, South, etc.), those can be abbreviated to single letters (N, S, E, W). The key is making sure your local post office will still recognize and deliver to the abbreviated version. I'd recommend trying the USPS address lookup tool that Amara mentioned before switching software entirely. Most tax programs have the same IRS character limitations, so you'll likely run into this issue regardless of which one you use.

Just wanted to add another perspective here - even if you're not required to file, there's also the psychological benefit of staying in the habit. I skipped filing one year when I had minimal income and it made me feel disconnected from my financial responsibilities. When I started working again the following year, I found myself less prepared for tax season because I'd gotten out of the routine. Filing even with zero income keeps you engaged with the process and helps you understand how different types of income and losses affect your taxes. Plus, if you use tax software, many of them are free for simple returns. It's actually good practice to walk through the filing process when the stakes are low (no income to mess up) rather than when you have a complex tax situation later.

I'm a tax professional and wanted to add some clarity to this discussion. While you're technically not required to file with such minimal income, I strongly recommend you do file for 2023. Here's why: First, those $3,000 investment losses are valuable! You can claim up to $3,000 in net capital losses against ordinary income each year, and any excess carries forward indefinitely. Even if you don't have income now to offset, those losses will be waiting for you when you do start earning again. Second, the $200 cash income from yard work - while minimal - should technically be reported if you file. The IRS doesn't have a "de minimis" exception for small amounts of income. Third, filing establishes a paper trail with the IRS showing your financial activity (or lack thereof) for 2023. This can be helpful if you're ever questioned about your income in future years. The process is straightforward: you'd file Form 1040 with Schedule D (Capital Gains and Losses) and Form 8949 (Sales and Other Dispositions of Capital Assets) to report your investment losses. Most free tax software can handle this easily, and since you won't owe any taxes, there's no cost to file electronically. Bottom line: file the return, claim those losses, and set yourself up for future tax benefits when you're working again.

I've been through this process multiple times for different overseas positions, and I can share some practical insights that might help clear up the confusion! For Line 7, the key is understanding what your employer actually needs the certificate for. Most international employers requesting tax residency certification want to verify your US tax resident status for treaty benefits or withholding purposes. In your case, starting in March 2025, you'll likely want certification for 2024 (the most recently completed tax year when you start) or 2025 (the year you'll actually be working). Since the fee is the same regardless of how many years you request, I'd strongly recommend requesting both 2024 and 2025 on the same form. This gives you maximum flexibility and ensures you have the right documentation regardless of what your employer specifically needs. One important thing to note: the IRS can certify future years (like 2025) based on your previous filing history, so don't worry about not having filed 2025 taxes yet. They'll use your 2023 and 2024 returns to verify your ongoing US tax resident status. Given the 6-8 week processing time and your March start date, I'd submit your Form 8802 ASAP. Consider faxing it instead of mailing for potentially faster processing, and make sure every field is completed accurately since errors cause significant delays.

Based on everyone's helpful advice here, I'd recommend taking a two-pronged approach to get this resolved quickly and correctly. First, definitely request both 2024 and 2025 on Line 7 of your Form 8802 since the fee is the same for multiple years. This covers you regardless of what your employer specifically needs, and given the March start date, you want maximum flexibility. Second, while you're waiting for the IRS processing (which could take 6-8 weeks), reach out to your employer's HR or international tax team to ask specifically which tax year they need and if they have any other documentation requirements. Sometimes they just need proof of US tax residency status and don't care about the specific year. For submitting the form, definitely fax it rather than mail it - several people mentioned this can save 1-2 weeks of processing time. Make sure you're using the current version from the IRS website and that every field is completed accurately since errors cause major delays. The good news is that requesting 2025 certification isn't a problem even though you haven't filed those taxes yet - the IRS will use your 2023 and 2024 filing history to verify your US tax resident status. Just make sure to include any required attachments like tax transcripts if you've had amended returns or special circumstances. Given your tight timeline, I'd get this submitted ASAP and consider the expedited processing option if your employer can provide documentation of the firm deadline. Good luck! 🤞

Has anyone mentioned the income phaseouts for child tax credits? This was a HUGE factor for us last year. If either of you is close to or over $200,000 in income (for single filers), the child tax credit starts phasing out. In our case, my partner makes about $210k and I make $155k. We found it was WAY better for me to claim both kids because I could get the full child tax credit while she was getting a reduced amount due to her income. Before you decide, calculate your modified adjusted gross income and check where you fall on the phaseout range. Could make a difference of thousands depending on your exact income levels.

Another important consideration that hasn't been mentioned yet is the Earned Income Tax Credit (EITC) if either of you qualifies. With two children, the EITC can be worth up to $6,728 for 2023, but it phases out at different income levels depending on filing status. For Head of Household filers with two children, the EITC phases out completely around $56,838 in earned income, while for single filers it's around $50,594. Given that you both earn in the six-figure range, you likely won't qualify, but it's worth double-checking since this credit can be substantial. Also, don't forget about the dependent care FSA (Flexible Spending Account) if either of your employers offers it. You can set aside up to $5,000 pre-tax for childcare expenses, which effectively reduces your taxable income. This works independently of who claims the children as dependents, so whoever has access to a dependent care FSA should definitely use it. Just remember you can't double-dip - if you use FSA funds for daycare, you can't also claim those same expenses for the Child and Dependent Care Credit. The FSA savings alone could be worth $1,000-2,000 depending on your tax bracket, so make sure to factor that into your planning for next year!