Is splitting Goodwill clothing donations across tax years worth it to stay under $500 limit? (Itemized deduction question)
I'm currently in the 35% tax bracket and already itemize deductions each year because of real estate taxes, mortgage interest, and cash donations to various 501(c)(3)s. I easily exceed the standard deduction for single filers. I've been cleaning out my closet and creating a detailed spreadsheet for clothing donations to Goodwill. I'm tracking brand names, descriptions, and taking photos of everything. Using ItsDeductible to calculate values, most items are coming in between $5-$15 with the average around $8-$10. So far I've logged 53 items with a current total of $496, but I have a lot more clothes to process and might end up with twice this amount. While researching donation rules, I discovered that for donations under $500, I just need a receipt from Goodwill showing their name, address, date, location, and what was donated. However, for donations between $501-$5000, I need to document how and when I acquired the items, their adjusted basis, complete Form 8283, and apparently face a higher audit risk. Would it make more sense to donate $496 worth of items now and then wait until January to donate the rest (keeping that batch under $500 too) for my 2025 taxes? Or is this unnecessary caution? I've been filing my own taxes for 15 years through some complex situations and have never been audited, but I'm definitely not a tax expert.
23 comments


Jay Lincoln
The $500 threshold for non-cash charitable contributions does create additional documentation requirements, so your research is spot on. For donations exceeding $500, you'll need to complete Section A of Form 8283 and provide more detailed information. However, I think there's a misconception worth addressing. The additional documentation requirements don't necessarily translate to a significantly higher audit risk if you're doing everything correctly. The IRS isn't automatically flagging returns with Form 8283 for audit - they're looking for unusual patterns or excessive valuations relative to income. That said, your strategy of splitting the donations across tax years to keep each batch under $500 is perfectly legitimate tax planning. Since you're already itemizing in both years, you'll get the same total deduction either way. The benefit is simply reduced paperwork and documentation requirements. Just ensure you get proper receipts from Goodwill for each donation, including the date and a general description of what was donated. Keep your detailed spreadsheet with your tax records in case questions ever arise.
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Jessica Suarez
•Thanks for this explanation! Question though - if I do go over $500 in a single year, exactly what kind of documentation would I need about "how and when the items were acquired"? Most of my clothes were purchased at various times over many years, and I certainly don't have receipts for them. How specific does this information need to be?
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Jay Lincoln
•For clothing and household items acquired over time without original receipts, you don't need to provide actual purchase receipts. The IRS recognizes that most people don't keep receipts for everyday clothing purchases. You can use reasonable estimates for when you acquired the items - for example, "purchased between 2020-2023" is acceptable. The key is being able to substantiate the condition and fair market value of the donated items. This is why your spreadsheet with descriptions, brands, and photos is excellent documentation. ItsDeductible is also widely accepted for establishing reasonable valuations. Just be conservative with your valuations and you'll be fine even if you exceed the $500 threshold.
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Marcus Williams
I went through something similar last year with a massive closet cleanout! I tried using various spreadsheets but it was getting so tedious tracking everything. A friend recommended https://taxr.ai which automatically scanned my Goodwill receipts and analyzed the values based on IRS guidelines. It actually flagged some items where I had undervalued things (apparently some of my "old" clothes were worth more than I thought). The tool also explained exactly what documentation I needed when I crossed that $500 threshold, and stored all my donation photos with matching valuations. Made the whole Form 8283 thing way less intimidating. Honestly saved me hours compared to manually entering everything into a spreadsheet.
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Lily Young
•How does it handle valuation though? Does it just accept whatever price you put, or does it have some kind of database that determines fair market value? I'm always nervous about claiming too much on donations.
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Kennedy Morrison
•Did you still have to take photos of everything yourself? I have like 200+ items to donate and taking individual photos sounds like a nightmare. Also wondering if this works for other types of donations beyond clothes?
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Marcus Williams
•It has its own valuation database that's updated regularly based on secondhand market prices. You can override values if needed, but it gives you a recommended range that's IRS-compliant. It actually prevented me from undervaluing some designer items I didn't realize had retained their value. For the photos, you can batch photograph similar items which saved me tons of time. So one photo of "5 men's dress shirts" rather than individual shots of each. And yes, it works for household goods, furniture, electronics, and pretty much anything you'd donate - not just clothes.
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Kennedy Morrison
Just wanted to follow up - I actually ended up trying https://taxr.ai for my donation pile and it was super helpful! I had about 150 clothing items plus some household stuff, and instead of spending a whole weekend on spreadsheets, I knocked it out in about an hour. The best part was learning I could group similar items together rather than listing every single thing separately. Their valuation guide also showed me that some of my nicer work clothes were worth more than the flat $5 value I was planning to assign to everything. Ended up with a legitimate deduction about 30% higher than I would have calculated myself. It automatically created the Form 8283 for me too, which was a huge relief since I ended up going well over the $500 threshold. Definitely recommend if you have a big donation pile to process!
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Wesley Hallow
Your post is exactly why I stopped trying to donate stuff valued at over $500! After dealing with the additional paperwork hassle and constant worry about an audit, I discovered Claimyr (https://claimyr.com) when I needed to actually call the IRS with questions about Form 8283. I'd been trying to reach someone at the IRS for weeks with no luck. They got me connected to an actual IRS agent in about 15 minutes instead of the 3+ hour hold times I was experiencing. The agent walked me through exactly what documentation I needed for my sizable donations and confirmed that splitting donations across tax years is completely legitimate. You can see how it works here: https://youtu.be/_kiP6q8DX5c Honestly, speaking directly with the IRS gave me so much more confidence than just googling and worrying. The agent even mentioned that thorough documentation like what you're doing with your spreadsheet and photos is exactly what they want to see.
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Justin Chang
•Wait, you can actually get through to a human at the IRS? I thought that was impossible these days! How much does this service cost? Seems too good to be true that they could get you through when the IRS phone lines are always jammed.
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Grace Thomas
•This sounds like an ad. No way someone gets you through to the IRS that fast. I've literally spent entire days on hold and eventually gave up. Why would they be able to get through when normal people can't?
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Wesley Hallow
•It works by holding your place in line with their system while you go about your day. They only call you once they're near the front of the queue. I don't remember the exact cost but it was reasonable considering the hours of hold time it saved me and the peace of mind I got from speaking directly to an agent. They can get through because they're essentially waiting in the same queue as everyone else - they're just doing the waiting for you. It's not like they have a special line or anything. They just have automated systems that can stay on hold instead of you having to do it yourself.
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Grace Thomas
I have to eat my words and apologize to Profile 7. After my skeptical comment, I decided to try Claimyr myself because I've been trying to get through to the IRS about a notice I received regarding my charitable deductions from last year. I was connected to an IRS representative in about 20 minutes. The agent confirmed that my documentation was sufficient and cleared up my questions about the $500 threshold. She actually said splitting donations across tax years like you're planning is a common and perfectly acceptable practice. The peace of mind from speaking directly with the IRS instead of trying to interpret their cryptic guidance online was absolutely worth it. Sorry for being so dismissive before - sometimes good services actually do exist!
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Hunter Brighton
As someone who donates over $500 in clothing/household goods every year, I'd suggest just biting the bullet and filling out Form 8283. It's really not that complicated, especially if you're already keeping detailed records with photos and descriptions. For acquisition dates, I just put rough estimates like "acquired 2018-2023" and have never had an issue. The key is reasonable valuations - ItsDeductible is great because it's based on actual thrift store pricing and the IRS generally accepts it. I've been audited once (for unrelated reasons) and they never questioned my Goodwill donations even though they were over $1,000 with Form 8283 attached. Your detailed spreadsheet would likely impress any auditor since most people don't document nearly that well.
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Brooklyn Foley
•This is really reassuring, thanks! Have you ever had to provide the photos you took during an audit, or was your documentation on the form itself sufficient? I'm just trying to figure out what level of record-keeping is actually necessary versus me being overly cautious.
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Hunter Brighton
•I've never had to provide the actual photos during an audit. The documentation on Form 8283 along with the Goodwill receipts was sufficient. That said, I keep the photos for 7 years just to be safe, but they're digital so it's not a storage burden. I think your level of documentation actually exceeds what most people provide. The IRS is primarily concerned with people who wildly inflate values or claim donations they never made. When you have a detailed spreadsheet with reasonable valuations per item, you're already in a stronger position than 95% of taxpayers.
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Dylan Baskin
One thing nobody has mentioned yet - be careful about condition! IRS rules specify that clothing and household items must be in "good used condition or better" to qualify for any deduction. If you're claiming items in "excellent" condition with higher values, make sure they truly are in excellent shape. Also, since you mentioned being in the 35% bracket, remember that donations of appreciated property (like stocks) can be more tax-efficient than cash or clothing donations. You avoid capital gains tax AND get the deduction for the full market value. Might be worth considering for your future charitable giving strategy.
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Lauren Wood
•Great point about condition! I had a donation rejected once because the items weren't in good enough shape. The volunteer actually told me "these aren't sellable" and wouldn't give me a receipt. I was embarrassed but glad they were honest rather than me claiming a deduction for stuff that didn't qualify.
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Faith Kingston
Your approach of detailed documentation with photos and ItsDeductible valuations is excellent! I've been doing similar clothing donations for years and can offer some practical insights. Regarding your question about splitting donations across tax years - this is absolutely legitimate and many tax professionals actually recommend it. The $500 threshold does trigger additional paperwork requirements, but it's not as daunting as it might seem initially. One strategy I've found helpful is to separate your items by condition and value. Donate your lower-value everyday items first (keeping under $500) and save any higher-value pieces (designer items, barely worn professional clothing, etc.) for a separate donation where you'll complete Form 8283. This way you maximize your deduction while minimizing complexity. Also consider timing - if you're close to year-end and already have significant itemized deductions locked in, it might make sense to push some donations to January to help with next year's taxes, especially if you expect your income or tax situation to change. The key is consistent, reasonable documentation. Your spreadsheet approach puts you ahead of most taxpayers, and the IRS generally respects thorough record-keeping. Don't let the $500 threshold scare you away from claiming legitimate deductions you're entitled to!
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Mateo Martinez
•This is really helpful advice! I like the idea of separating items by value and condition - that's something I hadn't considered. Do you have any specific guidelines for what qualifies as "higher-value" pieces that would be worth the extra Form 8283 paperwork? I'm trying to figure out if items in the $15-25 range are worth including in the more complex donation batch or if I should save that designation for truly expensive pieces like barely-worn suits or designer items. Also, regarding timing - I'm curious about your point on income changes. My income is pretty stable, but I'm wondering if there are other tax situation changes that might make it beneficial to shift donations between years?
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Ryan Kim
•Great questions! For "higher-value" pieces, I typically consider anything over $20-25 per item worth including in the Form 8283 batch, especially if it's a designer brand or professional wear that could reasonably be valued at $50+ in excellent condition. Items in the $15-25 range could go either way - if you have enough lower-value items to hit your $500 threshold, those mid-range pieces might be better saved for the more complex donation. Regarding timing and tax situation changes, here are some scenarios where shifting donations between years makes sense: if you're expecting a promotion/bonus that pushes you into a higher bracket next year (making the deduction more valuable), if you're planning major expenses like home improvements that might reduce your itemized deductions, or if you're approaching retirement and expect lower income. Also consider if you're near the AGI limits for certain deductions - charitable contributions can help manage your AGI in strategic ways. One tip: I always try to make my "simple" donations (under $500) in December and my "complex" donations (requiring Form 8283) in January or February when I have more time to deal with the paperwork during tax prep season.
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Matthew Sanchez
Your documentation approach is really thorough - taking photos and using ItsDeductible puts you in a great position regardless of which route you choose. I've been dealing with similar donation decisions and wanted to share a few practical considerations. The audit risk concern is understandable, but in my experience, the IRS is more focused on unreasonable valuations than properly documented donations over $500. Your detailed spreadsheet with conservative valuations actually demonstrates good faith compliance. One factor to consider is your time value. If splitting the donations saves you several hours of Form 8283 paperwork and you're comfortable with the slightly delayed deduction timing, that might be worth it. On the other hand, if you expect to have large donations regularly, getting comfortable with the Form 8283 process now could save hassle in future years. Also worth noting - if you do go over $500, you can group similar items on the form rather than listing each piece individually. So "men's business shirts (12 items)" with a total value is acceptable, which makes the paperwork much more manageable than it initially appears. Given that you're already itemizing and in a high bracket, you'll get the same tax benefit either way. I'd lean toward whatever approach gives you more confidence and peace of mind in your record-keeping.
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James Maki
•This is really helpful perspective, thanks! The point about grouping similar items on Form 8283 is particularly reassuring - I was imagining having to list every single shirt individually which seemed overwhelming. Your comment about time value really resonates with me. I think I've been so focused on avoiding the "complexity" of Form 8283 that I didn't consider how splitting donations might actually create more work overall - multiple trips to Goodwill, managing two separate spreadsheets, etc. Since I'm already doing the detailed documentation anyway, maybe it makes more sense to just do one larger donation and get comfortable with the form. Especially since you mentioned this could be useful for future years - I suspect this won't be my last major closet cleanout! One follow-up question: when you group items like "men's business shirts (12 items)" - do you still need to track the individual valuations internally, or can you just assign a reasonable per-item average and multiply by quantity?
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