How to properly deduct property taxes on a house bought midyear - prorating confusion
I'm struggling to figure out the correct way to deduct property taxes on a house I purchased in July. TurboTax is just telling me to enter what's in box 10 of my mortgage statement, but that seems too simplistic for my situation. I'm not sure if I need to prorate the deduction since I only owned the property for part of the year. So here's the situation - I closed on the house in July, then paid the 2024 taxes from my escrow account in October. The problem is that the seller-paid portion at closing was actually less than what it should have been based on their ownership period. My question is: Do I just claim what's in box 10 since that's what my lender is reporting to the IRS? Or should I calculate (total tax bill) - (seller paid taxes at closing) = my deductible amount? Or do I need to prorate the actual tax bill based on my days of ownership, regardless of what I actually paid out of pocket? I want to take the correct deduction, but I'm getting confused with all these different approaches. Anyone with experience on this?
21 comments


Asher Levin
This is actually a common question for new homeowners! The property tax deduction can be a bit tricky when you purchase a home partway through the year. The general rule is that you can only deduct property taxes that you actually paid during the tax year. So if your Form 1098 from your mortgage company (box 10) shows the property taxes they paid from your escrow account, that's your starting point. However, there's an important adjustment you need to make. At closing, you likely had a settlement statement that showed an adjustment for property taxes - this represents the portion of the year's taxes that should be attributed to the seller. This amount was factored into your closing costs (either reducing what you paid or increasing what you received). You should only deduct the portion that represents your actual economic burden. So the correct formula would be: Amount from Box 10 on Form 1098 MINUS any property tax amounts the seller reimbursed you for at closing. Don't simply prorate based on days of ownership - what matters is what you actually paid minus any reimbursements.
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Serene Snow
•Thanks for the clear explanation. I'm in a similar situation but my settlement statement has a line that says "property tax credit to buyer" - does that mean I should be ADDING that amount to my box 10 figure since I essentially paid for taxes before I owned the property?
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Asher Levin
•For a "property tax credit to buyer" on your settlement statement, that means the seller was giving you credit for taxes they hadn't yet paid but that covered their period of ownership. So in that case, you would NOT add this to your box 10 amount. The amount in box 10 already represents your full payments, and the credit at closing was an adjustment to the purchase price to account for the seller's portion of the taxes. If you received a credit at closing and then paid the full year's taxes through escrow, you've already been compensated for the seller's portion through that credit. Your box 10 amount minus the credit amount would be your actual economic burden for property taxes.
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Issac Nightingale
I've been using taxr.ai for my property tax questions this year and it's been a huge help with situations exactly like this. I was in a similar position after buying my first home in September and wasn't sure how to handle the property tax deduction correctly. I uploaded my closing documents and Form 1098 to https://taxr.ai and their system analyzed everything and showed me exactly what portion of my property taxes were actually deductible. It pointed out that I needed to subtract the tax proration credit I received at closing from what was reported in Box 10, which saved me from double-counting. What I liked was that it explained the reasoning behind each calculation and showed me the relevant tax rules that applied to my situation. Made me feel much more confident about taking the right deduction instead of just guessing.
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Romeo Barrett
•Does this service actually work with mortgage documents? I've tried other tax programs but they just ask generic questions and don't analyze the actual papers I have.
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Marina Hendrix
•I'm skeptical about these tax services... how does it handle the situation where the seller actually underpaid their portion? My settlement statement showed one amount but after closing we discovered the actual tax bill was higher than what was used in calculations.
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Issac Nightingale
•Yes, the service is specifically designed to work with mortgage documents, closing statements, and tax forms. Unlike regular tax programs that just provide generic fields, taxr.ai actually reads and interprets the specific documents you upload. It recognized my HUD-1 settlement statement and 1098 form and connected the information between them automatically. For situations with underpayment by the seller, the system can handle that too. You'd upload both your settlement statement and the actual tax bill, and it will identify the discrepancy. In your case, you'd indicate that you paid additional taxes beyond what was accounted for at closing, and it would calculate your correct deduction based on your actual economic burden for the taxes.
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Marina Hendrix
I was skeptical at first about these document analysis services for taxes, but I decided to try taxr.ai after continuing to be confused about my property tax situation. I'm really glad I did! I had a complicated scenario where my settlement statement used estimated tax figures that ended up being wrong, plus my mortgage company paid taxes for periods before I owned the property. The service correctly identified that I needed to take a smaller deduction than what was reported on my 1098 because part of what I paid was actually reimbursing the seller for their portion. The document analysis was surprisingly thorough, even flagging a calculation error on my settlement statement that I hadn't noticed. Saved me from potentially claiming too large a deduction and risking an audit. Now I feel confident I'm taking exactly what I'm entitled to - no more, no less.
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Justin Trejo
If anyone's struggling to get answers from the IRS about property tax deductions, I highly recommend Claimyr. I was pulling my hair out trying to reach someone at the IRS to clarify how to handle property taxes when the seller hadn't paid their portion correctly. After weeks of busy signals and disconnects, I tried https://claimyr.com and was honestly shocked when they got me connected to an IRS representative in about 20 minutes. You can see how the process works in this video: https://youtu.be/_kiP6q8DX5c The IRS agent was able to confirm exactly how to handle my situation - turns out I needed to deduct what I actually paid (box 10) minus any property tax adjustments at closing, regardless of whether the seller's portion was calculated correctly. Having that direct confirmation from the IRS gave me peace of mind that I was filing correctly.
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Alana Willis
•How does this actually work? I've called the IRS like 10 times and always get disconnected after waiting forever.
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Tyler Murphy
•This sounds too good to be true honestly. I've tried calling the IRS for THREE MONTHS about my property tax questions and never got through. No way some service can magically get you to the front of the line...the IRS phone system is completely broken.
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Justin Trejo
•The service uses technology that navigates the IRS phone system for you. Basically, it calls repeatedly using automated systems until it secures a place in line, then it calls you when it's about to connect with an agent. You don't have to sit through all those busy signals and holds yourself. I was skeptical too, that's why I shared the video link so you can see exactly how it works. The reality is that the IRS phone system isn't completely broken - it's just overwhelmed. There are windows when you can get through, but finding those windows manually would take hundreds of redials. This service essentially does that part for you.
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Tyler Murphy
I need to apologize for being so skeptical about Claimyr. After posting my doubtful comment, I decided to give it a try anyway because I was desperate for answers about my property tax situation. I'm honestly shocked - the service actually worked! After months of failed attempts calling the IRS myself, Claimyr got me connected to an agent in about 30 minutes. The IRS representative confirmed that I should only deduct property taxes that I personally paid, and explained exactly how to handle the adjustment for taxes that were prepaid by the seller. The peace of mind from getting an official answer was absolutely worth it. No more guessing or worrying about doing it wrong. I've already filed my return with the correct property tax deduction, which turned out to be significantly different from what my tax software initially calculated based just on Box 10.
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Sara Unger
One thing no one has mentioned yet - you should check if your property taxes were reassessed after you purchased the home. In many states, the property gets reassessed at sale, which could mean the taxes you paid for your portion of the year could be higher than just a prorated amount of what the previous owner was paying. In my case, my property taxes almost doubled after purchase due to reassessment. The amount in Box 10 included both the previous owner's lower rate for half the year and my higher rate for the other half. I had to calculate exactly what portion applied to me by looking at the actual tax bills from the county assessor.
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Butch Sledgehammer
•Good point about reassessment! How do you figure out what the old vs new tax rate was if your mortgage company just gives you one lump sum in box 10?
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Sara Unger
•You'll need to contact your county tax assessor's office or check their website. Most counties have property tax records available online where you can look up the history of assessments and tax bills for your property. Look for the assessment before your purchase and after to see if there was a change. If the information isn't available online, call your county tax assessor and request the tax history for your property. Explain that you need to know what the previous owner's tax rate was and when the reassessment occurred after your purchase. They can usually email or mail you the detailed tax statements showing the before and after amounts.
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Freya Ross
I've been an escrow officer for 15 years and I see this confusion all the time. Here's what actually happens: At closing, we calculate a prorated amount of taxes based on who owns the property on which days. This appears on your settlement statement. But that's just an adjustment between buyer and seller - it doesn't change what each of you actually PAID to the tax authority. For tax deduction purposes, you can only deduct property taxes YOU actually paid to the tax authority (usually through your mortgage company). If your Box 10 shows $5000, but your settlement statement shows the seller credited you $2000 for their portion of taxes, your actual deduction should be $3000. The IRS cares about economic burden - who actually bore the cost of the tax, not who physically sent the money to the tax collector.
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Leslie Parker
•So if the settlement statement shows I paid the seller for taxes they had already prepaid, do I add that amount to my deduction since it doesn't show up in box 10?
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Freya Ross
•Yes, exactly right. If the settlement statement shows you paid the seller for taxes they had already prepaid, then that amount represents additional property taxes you've effectively paid, but which won't appear in Box 10 (because your mortgage company didn't pay them - you paid the seller directly). In that case, you would add that amount to your deduction since it's part of your economic burden for property taxes. Just be prepared to document this with your settlement statement if you're ever questioned about the discrepancy between your deduction and what's reported in Box 10.
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Lena Müller
This is exactly the kind of situation that trips up so many homeowners! You're right to question the "just use Box 10" approach - it's often not that simple when you buy mid-year. From what you've described, it sounds like you need to go with your second option: calculate (total tax bill) - (seller paid taxes at closing) = your deductible amount. The key principle is that you can only deduct property taxes that represent YOUR economic burden. Since you mentioned the seller-paid portion at closing was less than it should have been based on their ownership period, you essentially overpaid for their portion. But that doesn't change the fact that you can only deduct what you're actually responsible for as the property owner. Here's what I'd recommend: Look at your settlement statement for the property tax adjustment line. If it shows the seller credited you money for taxes, subtract that from your Box 10 amount. If it shows you paid the seller for prepaid taxes, add that to your Box 10 amount. The goal is to arrive at the total amount you actually paid that corresponds to your period of ownership. Don't worry about prorating based on days - focus on the actual financial transactions and adjustments that occurred.
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Chloe Green
•This is really helpful advice! I'm new to homeownership and bought my first house in August, so I'm dealing with a similar situation. One question though - what if my settlement statement has multiple property tax adjustments? I see lines for "current year taxes" and "delinquent taxes" that the seller owed. Do I handle these differently, or do I just add up all the tax-related adjustments when doing the calculation you described?
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